Real carding for newbie

Real carding tips for newbie​

Hi there,
As working as carder in Philippines for 4 years, I am in here to share some tips of real store carding.

Which track we need to write?
As we know normal your purchased dump the most important is track 2 which is transaction track.
Some of dump included track 1 or track 2.
Track 1 is used to show what name will be appear in the receipt come out from POS machine.
But honestly, only track 2 will be working fine. So just write track 2 if you dot not know how to calculate the track 1 and track 3

What is downgrade POS machine?
As we know that 220 201 these starting at number 2 dump which is chips+magnet stripe compound card.
These kind of dumps required your POS or ATM in your country must has downgrade so can be identify your dump.
However, is not all bank can be works in all country so you need to try it before starting this business.
If you really dont know just easy to choose 101 120 106 these dumps start from number 1.

How do I know our dump type?
Its very easy to identify.
the number start after "=" symbol following 4 digit is expired date of dump than 3 digits is what you want to know.
Example:
4353555566667777=49121014273628239
this is Dec 2049 expired date and type is 101
4353555566667777=22012014273628239
this is Jan 2022 expired date and type is 201

Type of dump?
106 201 221 normally stand for credit card
120 220 are debit card
however 101 can stand for credit or debit both you should use bin checker to identify.

Today I just shared these idea for newbie. Next time I will share more.

How to do real carding for newbies​

Everything you wanted to know about instore carding.

Introduction:

So youre interested in trying out instore carding? Instore carding is one of the fastest ways to get money. But you will need to keep your head on straight for this. As you should with every operation you go out to do. This tutorial will tell you the ins and outs of instore carding. Feel free to distrobute this as much as you want.

For the beginners:

Youre obviously reading this because you either A. Want to learn how to instore card or B. Want to see if you can find anything you are not aware of.
For people who chose A. You should have atleast some prior knowledge of credit cards before you try instoring. If you do not that is ok too, just keep reading the tutorial and by the end of it you should be fine. The most important thing about instore carding is how you *Take the part* of the identity youre *Playinig* as. If youre going into a store looking to come out with $3-5k worth of electronics dressed in your normal apparel and being nervous, think again. You need to dress up and act like a person who would look like they could buy these items any day of the week. The first time youre going to be nervous ofcourse, its natural to be nervous the first few times. But with time and past experiences to look back on, it just gets easier as you go on.

Dressing the part:

This should come natural to most people out there. To buy something expensive you need to make it look like you can buy these items along with acting like you can (below). For your first operation i suggest should include you going into any of the clothing stores listed below and buy a decent amount of quality clothes. I cannot stress enough how quality plays a part in dressing up. Buying a sweater in walmart and a sweater in banana republic could determine the difference between getting out with your goods or running out of the store. Along with clothing you might want to buy some jewelry or a very high priced watch. If a cashier suspects something is up, seeing some classy jewelry or a watch could also help reduce the suspicion.

Clothing stores are usually never uptight with purchases of clothing so that is why I suggest going there first to get some quality clothes. You can be dressed as you want in there and it wont matter. When you buy the new clothes, put them on in a restroom and then continue your activities on a higher priced basis.

Acting the part:

This area will come hard for some but easier for others. Prepare yourself before you go in with things you might say. If youre going into a store to buy smaller items ($800 and below) , this usually not hard to accomplish. But for larger items you should act as if you can afford these items at any time of day. Acting stuck up in a sense can accomplish this. Other than that, dressing the part is the other area that helps you present yourself as a person of wealth.

Beginning:

Before you go out there and start instoring you will need the following items.

Card reader/writer - Youre going to have to (in most cases) need a card reader/writer to write new dumps on your cards. Especially if you want to re encode your cards and go out. The only case where you would not need this is if you were buying plastic from a vendor who offers to encode the dumps for you. For a reader/writer I highly recommend the MSR-206. It is the most popular encoder out there. You can buy them from Price: $200 $640.

Computer/Laptop (Preferred) - To be able to encode your dumps (later on) you will first need a computer to hook your card encoder up to. Using a desktop is fine but if you come into any problems with your dumps which is going to happen, you will have no way to re encode your plastic. You will have to drive home and re encode there. But if you have a laptop, you can bring your MSR with you and just hook it up and re encode while youre in your car. Doing this will save you gas, and time. Price: $600 to $2400

Power Inverter - This is a very handy tool that youre going to need for this and you will probably find yourself using for all other types of things. The MSR requires a power source so buy or card one of these. If your laptop battery gets low aswell which will sometimes happen just hook it up aswell. I found a very good one at BestBuy for $80. It covers up to 800 watts (400 watts each plug). Price: $80

Plastic - I have seen all sorts of ways to obtain plastic. From stealing others and using those to buying them from a vendor. You DO NOT want to steal anyones credit cards and start using those. And you do not want to re encode your own credit cards. Im sure it makes sense to do so but over time if you start using your own credit card, the credit card companys are going to see the name being used and will surely contact you about these occurances. The best bet is to buy plastic from a vendor. Think about this too. When buying plastic, get atleast 2 cards with the same name as your novelty. It will save money on new novelties and give you a higher chance of walking out with your merchandise.

Dumps - The most important item of this whole operation. What would you do without dumps? Nothing thats what. I highly recommend BadB and Script and Ryden for dumps. They supply the best quality on dumps. I have tried over 7 different dump vendors and I still stay strong with them. Now depending on what youre planning on getting out for your first op will determine on how much you will need to spend on dumps. I would not worry about spending for now. As soon as your op is over you will see that you have well made your money back from this.

Wallet - Some people may think that putting the plastic and novelty in your own wallet is not a bad idea. But the truth is that it is probably one of the biggest problems that could arise if anything was to happen. Keeping your false information and your real information seperate is a necessity. If you have any sort of personal contact information on you when carding I would suggest dropping it off in your car.

Optional Items -

Fake ID - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED but is not always needed. Most of the time for large purchases cashiers will ask for an identification that matches the plastic. There are numerous vendors out there who provide a novelty service that will fit your needs. Getting a state that is semi close to you is ideal in this situation.

Anonymous Phone - This is optional to have, I have used Rydens dumps the most and he checks the dumps before sending so that all are valid. His dumps work 8/10 times on average. So if one card does not work I simply hand them another card with an excuse as to why that card was not working. If youre going through any other vendor other than BadB and Script or Ryden you should buy a tracfone and find a phone merchant that will verify your dumps before you go into a store. When using a phone merchant there are two ways of authorizing a card. Some people think that charging a $1 or $1.50 on the card will not kill the card as many businesses use a $1 or $1.50 charge as a pre-authorization to check and see if the card is valid. Others prefer charging a random higher amount to make it look like a legit purchase. Either way, its up to you how would want to check it.

Serial to USB Converter - Smaller laptops may not come with a serial port to connect your encoder to. If this is the case you will need to buy one of these. Price: $15-$25

Newskin Bandaid Liquid - You might be asking yourself "What would I do with this?". Well, if you really want to be protective you can put some newskin
on your finger tips so no traces of fingerprints will appear on the plastic if any misfortune was to happen.

Planning:

Planning out what youre going to buy before you buy it would be a nice thing to do. It saves you time thinking of what you need or might need.

Also think about this. If youre main goal is to get a hefty sum of money, you should checkout ebay to see what sells for a high percentage. Usually gift
cards to popular stores get high amounts back because they are just like cash. But just double check ebay.

If youre going to do an instore op for your own personal pleasure then you really dont need to make a list because you should already know what you want to get. Or you can look around in the store and choose what you want.

Taking care of business:

Before hand I always like going to the bathroom. It makes the carding situation a bit more easier if you get nervous. JediMasterC brought this on aswell.
You do not want to get caught and be remembered as the kid who shit his pants. That is if you do get caught which odds are you wont if you follow these instructions.

Destination Safety:

Choosing a location to instore is not very hard. The internet has a vast amount of websites that have store locators. So find your subject mall or store and do a search to see whats around you. Here is a very important rule to follow by. Do not do anything where you live. Or in a more common way of putting it. Dont shit where you live. Find a store thats atleast a good half hour drive away from you and is atleast two cities over.

Some people choose to use fake license plates when entering your destination for carding just to add that extra level of security on in case a camera catches the car that drives away. This is ofcourse optional, but it doesnt hurt to put more safety on. Just dont speed away or anything that could get you pulled over.

Parking - When parking your car, make sure you park for out so no camera will catch your license plate. It will be worth the extra walk when youre walking out with your merchandise.

Ready:

So now you have everything you need to get started. Youre prepared for the best and the worst situations to come.

The first time you go out you should expect some nervousness to come even before entering one of the stores listed below. The most important thing to do is to stay calm and act natural. The more suspicious you act, the more the cashier is going to suspect something is up. I do not recommend taking any drug or alcohol to calm yourself down. You need to look calm and natural while being alert to your atmosphere at the same time.

Important anatomy of a dump:

There is a more detailed version of this on CP. But for now, you will only need to know this information to start.

B41111111111111111111^LASTNAME/FIRSTNAME^060910100 000000000000000000
41111111111111111111=0609101000000000000000000000

B - Identifies to the POS system that your card is a bank card

4111111111111111 - Credit Card Number

Lastname - Lastname of cardholder

/ - Seperater

Firstname - Firstname of cardholder

06 - Experation Year

09 - Experation Month

101 & Beyond - Bank data

Now some vendors will only sell the second track. So that leaves you with trying to figure out how to write track1. Most stores do not check track1 so it is not the most important thing. But to be safe I always include track1. Here is an example of what you will need to do. It is very easy.

4111111111111111=060910100000000000000

If you havent noticed, track2 in most cases is just like track1. To begin making track1, add a B that will indeicate its a Bank card.

B4111111111111111=060910100000000000000

Then, youre going to want to change the = to a
^lastname/firstname^ .

B4111111111111111^LASTNAME/FIRSTNAME^0609101000000 00000000

And finally, youre going to add six zeros at the end of the dump.

B4111111111111111^LASTNAME/FIRSTNAME^0609101000000 00000000000000

And thats your dump. Like I said its not hard to create track1 from only having track2. If you soley buy from BadB and Script and Ryden you will not have to do this.

Software to encode the dumps - I recommend TheJerms software. It is very self explanitory.

Types of dumps:

People ask me all the time about using generated dumps and if theyre good. I would not use generated dumps. Most of the time they will only work correctly with a certain Bin. And there is a 15% less success rate than using other types of dumps. You might as well use quality dumps in your locations you choose so people will not remember you instead of having errors come up and your face gets noticed more easily.

The best quality dump you will probably find are skimmed dumps. Skimmed dumps mean that the actual card was swiped onto a portable Mag Stripe reader.
Therefore, using these you know you will have all of the correct information for track1 and track2.

Hacked dumps are usually taken from databases by you guessed it, hackers. The quality on these are the normal quality thats out there.

Dump types and limits:

I will only discuss so far visa, discover dump limits and a word on amex dumps as I have not encounted any use with mastercard dumps.

Visa Classic - These types of dumps are usually the cheapest to buy from a vendor. I have heard that on average you can get $500 on these types of dumps.
But I have been pulled atleast $800 on them. Visa classics have a balance limit of $500 to $3,500. Although the most I have been able to get off of a single classic is $2,600 before an error occurs.

Visa Gold - One step above the classic, These limits start at $3,500 and can double as the cardholder gains good credit. With these you can make higher amounts of purchases.

Visa Platinum - Visa platinum dumps are for the larger purchases mainly. On a good day you can pull off anywhere from $3,000 to $6,000.

Visa Signature & Business - Signatues are said to have no limits. So for us that means these have the highest limits available. People have said to have gotten anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000 off of these types of dumps.

Discover - I have not used these that much in my past but from what I gathered you can get anywhere from $1,000 to $5,000 on these in one purchase. Using these dumps for multiple purchases will most likely kill the dump before you get past either of those limits. Almost all discover cards begin with a balance of $10,000.

Amex - I have not used these dumps. The reason to that is that you need the correct CVN to complete the transaction. It is not embossed, but printed onto the plastic. So you cannot re encode amex dumps. If the CVN is not correct when entered, you will automatically get a call for authorization.

How long dumps last:

This question no one can answer. You might be able to make a good prediction of how long they will last if you think of time and the dump type. For instance. If you have a classic dump, its 11:30 AM and you make a variety of small (Under $20) purchases. Odds are youre going to get that card to last a lot longer than a classic dump thats doing $300 purchases at 7:30 PM. Think of the cardholders work hours. They will usually be 9 AM to 5 PM. That is when their card is idle so to speak.

Advanced dump purchasing:

By now, if you have been reading about dumps. You might know that by purchasing dumps from banks that are closer to your area, that there is a higher success rate on most purchases. Only some vendors will offer to let you buy by a certain Bin (first six digits of the cc). The Bin determines what bank corresponds with the card. To find local Bins, go to http://www.hermesbank.net/interchange/ and search for a any bank that has a lot of locations in your area. You can also search for the state name and see what that comes up with.

Choosing your cashier:

This is probably one of the more fun things to do while instoring. Usually 90% of the time, Minorities and Younger Girls make the best choice for cashing out. Minorities include, Blacks, Mexicans, and Asians if you were wonderings. The reason you want to choose these types for your cashiers are because they are usually the easiest to manipulate. In some cases you are going to have to use a normal person to cashout. But try not to make it a habbit.

Interactions with the cashier:

In order to safely get your items out of the store successfully, you will need to know how to interact with the cashier. To in a sense manipulate them.

When you bring your stuff up to the cashier act normal. If it is a large amount they might say something nice to you mentioning the amount of merchandise you are buying. Just play with it and make them feel good aswell. If you make the cashier not feel comfortable they will think something is up if any error happens. Which will sometimes if you are planning on doing a lot of instore.

Errors and Excuses:

As I was saying above, there are going to be errors now and then. Now most are very easy to talk your way out of. But in some cases youre going to need to know when you try and grab your novelty and card and just run. That will most likely not happen if youre only doing this a few times but for people who are planning to do this more often it is most likely going to happen atleast once. I have listed below a few common errors and how to handle them.

Optional Pre-Excuse - JediMasterC brought this excuse method to a lot of peoples attention and it is a very good idea in most cases. Making the cashier already think that the transaction will not go through so they are not surprised by the error, which makes handling the situation much easier. Saying something as easy as *I hope I have enough to cover this* or anything around those terms is good.

Declined - Once you spend and spend on a good dump there has to be an ending point. Usually with dumps that will not die this is the final step to completing it. Hopefully you will have another card on you to hand the cashier. If you don't thats fine too.

If you have another card - Oh, I thought that was going to happen. Here try my other card.

If you do not have another card - I will be right back. I'm going to go get my check book / go to the ATM.

Call For Authorization - This one can be tricky if you do not have the right cashier. This is something you DO NOT want the cashier to do. A call for
authorization is basically the store calling the bank or the stores authorization center in order to confirm that it is the actual cardholder making the purchase. If this happens just stay calm.

If you have another card - I don't have that much time, Ill call the bank later. Try my other card.

If you do not have another card - I don't have that much time for this Ill call my bank and come back tomorrow.

If they persist on making the call, put your hand out as if they were going to give you your plastic back. Doing this tends to put some stress on the cashier as to whether or not give the card back to you. They usually will put the card back in your hands.

Do Not Honor - This will happen every now and then and is probably the easiest to overcome. The cashiers will sometimes just ask you if you have another card.

If you have another card - Hand them the card and say you'll call the bank about that one.

If you do not have another card - Oh, I will call my bank about that tomorrow (then leave).

Those are the most common problems you are going to find. Of course there are more error codes. There are about 50 of them. But by the time you manage to talk yourself out of these you will have enough experience to talk yourself out of the rest.

Selling your items:

There are a vast amount of ways for you to liquidate your items. The best way to do so is on ebay. I am not going to go into a large description because then this tutorial would change to how to sell your items or scam on ebay. You can either buy an account from a vendor or get a B&M bank account and create your own. I do not suggest using your own ebay account. A lot of people have in the past and even if a good amount havent been caught, you do not want to be that small percent that does.

Storing your money:

Here is another area that can be done in a lot of ways. I will tell you to not put the money in your legit bank account. If you were thinking that, you should take a minute and think again. You could store your money on an electronic bank account service such as egold, or webmoney. Or if you want more control over your money, you could keep it all in a well hidden safe. Using an electronic bank account instead has a higher security rate. As if anything was to happen to you involving LE, odds are they will not find your information for that account. Which means they would not have access to your funds because they would not know it exists.

End Notes:

Thank you for taking your time to read this tutorial. I hope it was worth your time! I also hope that everyone who is inspired by this reply with any words or questions they would like to say. Good luck to all of you!

FINGERS WE TRUST
ANONYMOUS LOADER CARDING UPDATE 2021

Once the CVV is available to the buyer, he now needs to figure out cartable websites.

Cartable websites are those website that meet the following criteria:
- Making sure that the website’s terms and conditions do not specifically ship items only to the card’s registered address. It should ship to other shipping address mentioned during purchase as well.
- Making sure that International shipping is allowed.
- The next thing to look for is weather the website has Visa verification code or MasterCard secure code enabled. This is a two-step authentication where the payment
gateway asks for a secure code before proceeding with payment. The card owner only knows this secure code.
- Check for additional security measures like card scans, delivery at door even when there is no one home, call backs to confirm item payment etc.

It is not easy to find such websites but professional fraudsters are good at finding work around. Several Gambling and online casino websites usually don’t have such strong security measures thus giving a good scope for fraudsters to add money to their gambling account. Buying porn website subscriptions, buying crypto currency, online betting and gaming are few other popular ways of using CC for online carding.

Underground forums are a good place for finding new and updated list of cartable websites. The community is tightly knitted and carders keep posting their findings into these forums to make sure that the ecosystem is ticking.

Flowchart for finding a cartable website

The Underground Ecosystem Of Credit Card Frauds – Black Hat, Asia 2021

Offline/In-store Carding

Offline carding or in-store carding is far more interesting and involves a much larger group to perform it successfully. As its name suggests, offline or in-store carding means swiping the counterfeit cards at the actual stores or POS terminals to make purchases.

In order to this, the buyer must convert his dumps into plastic cards. The buyer can either do it himself if he has the required hardware and software or he can again head back to his dark web to let third party do this for him. There are specific stores in the dark web forums that specialize in creating counterfeit cards using the dump data. They provide wide verity of options based on card brands, genre etc. Their neatness and enhanced customization make them a vital part of this fraud ecosystem. But at times, there are chances of a double fraud where the fake card generating store might run away with your dump details thus leaving you with nothing. Reputation is the key to this fraud system.

Many professional carders prefer generating counterfeit cards in-house to avoid leakage of their purchased dumps. In order to do this, there are some specific hardware and software requirements.

Plain plastic cards or fake counterfeit cards without any data on magnetic strip.

Magnetic card reader/writer.

Software to write Track 1, 2 and 3 data onto the plastic cards - MSR 206 with Plastic cards.

Briefly, following steps are involved in generating counterfeit cards using the above mentioned requirements and purchased CC details:
- The process begins by purchasing the counterfeit cards or plain plastic cards with magnetic strips.
- Once the card is available, the carder now requires a combination of Encoder hardware and software to write data onto the magnetic strip.
- There are multiple variants of hardware available readily on popular e-commence websites and underground carding forums. The most popular encoder amongst the community is the MSR206. It works fine with most versions of OS and compatible with popular encoding software’s like “thejerm” and “Exeba”.
- The process of writing data to Magnetic strip is very much self-explanatory. The carder needs to provide Track1 or Track 2 or both the track information from the dumps into the encoder software.
- Once the software is provided with these details, the hardware needs to be set up and the card needs to be properly placed in the encoder hardware.

TUTORIAL Carding with Dumps

What do I need for real carding?
This is a very good question you will need some cash. And the following will be helpful but not required at first. You should get these items at some point, but you don't need them right away. And I will tell you why in next section.Computer-laptop is best, as you can carry if you desire. If you don't have a laptop you can use your home P.C. till you can afford to get one. Of course with home PC you cant take it with you.
Encoder - If you look around most every has or talks about an MSR206 this seems to be the preferred encoder, but you can also use an AMC722. The AMC722 is usually cheaper and does the same thing. Look on the net and you can find these for pretty decent prices. There is a internet company that will ship overnight and you can send payment by Western Union.
The have a special for $550.00 you get MSR206 + Exeba Encoding Software + 50 loco or hico cards. Also XRAYSWIPE has pretty good deals on them also and is a reviewed vendor. You can use Exeba Comm software or TheJerm has a software program for the MSR206.
Laptop Bag - You can put your laptop and encoder in this also. Nice to have if you want to take your laptop and encoder on ops.
Power Inverter - Needed to run your encoder and nice to have if out for long period of time and laptop is dying. You can get these just about anywhere even wallyworld. Novelty Id - This should be at the top of your list as one of the first thing is you should get. You will need this at some point you do not want to use your real info. I repeat do not even for 1 time use your real information. There are some good vendors that are quick also. Just look under the reviewed vendor section for more details.
Dumps - Get them from zeusk. You can get classic, gold, platinum, world, business, signature etc. If this is your first time you may want to get classic and start by shopping for low end items. IE anything under $200-$500. Now classics working not good and will go for 1 or 3 times that but the general rule of thumb is under $300 and you should be okay. Gold and Platinum for items above $500 but say to $1,000 and Business, Signature $1,000 and above. These are just suggestions and not hard rules.Track 1 and 2 or just Track2 - you can get from zeusk. If you just have track2 only you can generate track 1 with PCKit-track1 generator. You will want to encode both tracks to your card. Making sure to change the name on the dump. Some stores only use track2 but it's best to stay safe and encode both.
Dump Example:
Track1 B410000000000000000000^REGAN/RONALD^0409XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Track2 41000000000000000000=04091XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
You of course change the name on track1 to your Novelty last name and first name. Plastic cards to put dumps on: Okay again never use your own card to encode onto, just not the best idea. You can get cards from just about anywhere, some drug stores sell prepaid cc's, you can try that or get a Visa or MasterCard branded gift card. Most malls carry this type of GiftCard. Simon Cards have been used a lot in the past so I would suggest staying clear of those. The best way Buy from plastic vendor.

Carding Terms
1. Bearing - A mechanical device having a fixed outer ring and a rotating inner ring with either balls or rollers between the two rings. The inner ring goes on a rotating shaft and the outer ring mounts on some type of frame.
2. Blending – Process of weighing out several component fibers and mixing them together to form an intimate blend.
3. Blend line – Consists of 3 or more blend hoppers for busting the bales of fiber open. Each hopper has a weighing pan that can accurately weigh and delivered metered amounts to the blend line conveyor.
4. Blending Reserve - Large box with spiked lift apron and rotary comb or a vertical box. This is used to store fiber for the card and to provide a fiber reserve in the event the blending line was to have problems that prevented it from running for a short period of time.
5. Breast Section - A series of metallic wire covered rolls that have coarse wire, spirally wound on the rolls with a low number of wire teeth per square inch. This is for coarse fiber opening and is to reduce the fiber more towards individual fibers and to break up any clumps that may still exist.
6. Card - Machine with two sections called the Breast Section and the Finishing Section. The purpose of the card is to take the feed batt and reduce it in weight by stretching (drafting) it into a fine fibrous web. It accomplishes this by continuously combing the fiber to orient the fiber in the machine direction of the card. Parallelizes the fibers.
7. Card brake - A device on the main cylinder of the card that quickly stops the main cylinder and the rolls attached to it in the event of an emergency stop
8. Card Feeder - Receives fiber from the blend line directly or from the blending reserve and transforms it into a compacted feed matt for feeding the card uniformly in both the machine and cross machine direction. Until the card feed, the fiber system is a start/stop process based on demand. The output from the card feeder is continuous
9. Condenser roll - A special type of output roll placed after a doffer but before the take-off roll or take-off device. The condenser roll has a slower surface speed than the doffer and it entangles the fiber and increases the loft of the fiber exiting the card.
10. Doffers - There are 2 doffers on the card. One doffer is on the top and removes a portion of the web from the main cylinder and deposits it as a fine fiber web onto the top run-out apron (conveyor). The other doffer is the bottom doffer and strips the remaining web from the main cylinder and deposits it onto the lower card run- out apron. These two webs are rejoined at the ends of the aprons.
11. Edge vacuums - Vacuums that suction the edges of the doffers to remove stray fibers and insure a clean, straight edge on the web exiting the card
12. Feedbatt - The name for the thick matt of fiber that comes out of a feed chute and goes into a card. Also called a feedmatt.
13. Feed plate - Another method for delivering fiber into a card as opposed to just feedrolls.
14. Feed table - A conveyor the carries the feedbatt from the feed chute to the card 15. Finishing section – Has a very large main cylinder that has a series of smaller
rolls on top and is covered with much finer metallic wire than the breast section.
The main cylinder travels at high surface speeds from approximately 1000 -1400
m/min. The rolls on top are the workers and the strippers.
16. Gauging - The spacing between the metallic wire tips of the various rollers in the
card and is usually expressed in 1000th of an inch or tenths of a millimeter.
17. Gear - A round piece of metal with teeth on its circumference that mounts on a shaft. Gears are used to transmit power from gear to gear without the need for
chain or belts. The driven shaft will turn in the opposite direction from the
driving shaft.

Read and lemme know when you dont understand anything.

Dumps shit new Era updates

Atm bezels MSR reader write - for encoding your cards Personally recommend the msr206

Pin hole camera record pin Msr009 Stores track 1&2 of the card I sell good MSR and Pos of better still you can go search ebay and alibaba, make sure you get msr009 and not a off brand.

Memory card - store recorded video footage.

Battery msr Magnetic heads reads track 1&2 from victims card comes with msr009 Wordbook ATM bezels The fake part that ressembles the real atm part MSR Magnetic stripe reader.

INFORMATION FOR BUYERS WHO WAIT DUMPS NEW ERA FRIE BINS UPDATED WITH HIGHER LEVEL BALANCE CONTACT ME ASAP FOR REAL DEALS.

Get Skimmer from their factory.

Just pay to get one. It illegal tho.

First connect the msr to the battery and magnetic head. You will get ready to use msr with battery and mag head, by just searching thoroughly online.

Now place the msr 009 carefully to the edge of the ATM card inserting bezel, such that the mag Stipe of the card runs over it.

And then tape the msr carefully such that it won't hang or fall outside. Also place it carefully such that mag stripe does not obstruct the card while going in the scimmer.

And finally add double taped gum on top and bottom to stick it.

The charge of the camera lasts for about 32hrs. And msr009 for 24hours and can store 32000 cards.

And everything is time stamped.

Now stick it on the atm's and once you collect it connect the msr009 to your computer and decode the data and check the pin entered at that time and you have your information.

Clone these using blank cards and msrx6.

Store the data for like 2 months do not use the data later on after 2 months start using it in different places.

You will have to closely inspect the atm or places where you want to skim and get precise bezels accordingly.

For special classes hit me up. Imma teach you through all the process.

Real carding​

The story of one very adventurous and reckless labor carder, who managed to stop in time and avoid the punishing sword of justice.

True story
"The world of carding has interested me for a long time, I began to study this direction, and I realized that there are three types of carding:

• Online - roughly speaking, to drive in goods through someone else's credit cards.
• Offline without a pin - buy goods through the magnetic stripe of the card in stores.
• Offline with a pin - it's hard to find a dump seller, so I decided to play the second type.

The first thing I did was study the forums. Many, many articles in order to form a complete picture in the head. Then I bought MSR 605 and installed the software.


MSR 605

And he began to play with his cards. I copied them and checked at grocery stores to see if they were encoded correctly. When I learned this, I moved on to another step - buying dumps. Having studied such forums as vvh and center, I found the stores I needed and the choice fell on Israeli 101 dumps without a pin. I made this choice in view of the fact that Jews often visit Russia and the banks of Israel and Russia are more or less loyal to these transactions.
I bought it. And immediately the question is - where to get 10 "non-white" plastic? I went to Euroset and took 5 corn cards for myself and 5 for a friend (limit 5 cards per person). I overwrote all the data on them. In total, I got 10 cards.

Then I began to think in which city to "try to buy". My city is small, and I'm paranoid, so I didn't even think of shopping at home. The choice fell on Nizhny Novgorod, it was 8 hours to go. The city is beautiful, with a large population and large, varied shopping centers.

Due to the fact that I am paranoid, I did not take my mobile phone. Arriving in the city, immediately got into a taxi and drove to the first shopping center. I run into the department with the watch, choose a model for $ 1000, and say that I am in a hurry to get it through faster. The seller says, "insert the card." To which I say that my cards are "corn" and the chip is not provided there, she says that it is not a question - just swipe the magic reader.

I spend, pos. the terminal thinks and starts printing a receipt. I stand at a loss and cannot believe my eyes that everything is so smooth the first time. No wonder I panicked. A check comes out - "the card is stolen - withdraw" ... There are a million thoughts in my head: what to do? what should I say? run away?
The seller looks at the check and says: "Oh, probably some kind of failure, or you don't have money on your card, maybe in cash?" I understand that the situation is under control and I say: "Okay, I'll go to the car to get the money and come." I leave the mall, call a taxi and go to another mall (I'm paranoid).
Thoughts flicker in my head about how to check the cards for validity and for their perception of foreign transactions. And a great idea comes up! McDonald's! Yes, he is! Everyone knows that there are self-service terminals, and you can pay by card yourself. Instead of a shopping center, I go to McDonald's, I start checking - out of 9 cards (I threw out the first card, because with a probability of 99% it was already blocked by the owner) only 3 cards passed. I leave 3 cards, I don't take 6 cocacols. I jump into a taxi and into the next shopping center.

I go to a store with household appliances, take a phone ($ 20), everything is according to the old scheme, in the end I get a check - "the operation is blocked." Those. there is a regionlock (the cardholder has banned card payments in all countries except his own). I go to the next store, the choice fell on jewelry, I take earrings for 31 tr. - I pay. Pos. the terminal thinks and the seller says to me - "sign the check". I was in a cold sweat, I was shaking (with happiness and fear at the same time), I sign, go down to the floor below, go to a watch store, choose a watch, pay in the same way and the transfer goes through again. My happiness knew no bounds, I go to the store with elite alcohol - "the card is stolen, confiscated."

The seller says: "Probably the money is over." I'm going to the next shopping center with the last card - a failure.
As a result, with investments (10 dumps - $ 150., MSR - $ 100, Round trip tickets + taxi + food - $ 50, Ie $ 300), I received watches for $ 1000, And earrings for $ 700 + I got invaluable experience and romance.

And I will also give you a life hack. At Lukoil gas stations, in 80% of cases the servicing bank is OPENING. Do not forget about the last 4 digits of the card, they MUST ask you.

I began to be tormented by the question - which banks in the Russian Federation are loyal to this kind of transactions?

Bank opening (when paying, they ask for the last 4 digits of the card (so when writing a dump to plastic, I advise you to mark the last 4 digits of the card from the dump somewhere)).

This story is written solely for educational purposes, to expand your horizons, and does not force you to do it. When working in the Russian Federation, we do not substitute the citizens of the Russian Federation, we substitute only the insurance companies of the country to which the dump belongs.

Conclusion
On my own I would like to add that the author acted very recklessly and if he worked on such an algorithm on a permanent basis, anyway would have ended up in places not so remote. Why? Yes, if only because he lit his face wherever possible and attracted the attention of sellers with failed trances. All of this could be easily avoided by working through the drop.

DISCLAIMER
This article is presented for informational purposes only and does not constitute a call to action. All information is aimed at protecting readers from illegal actions.[/I]