Carding
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Lecturer: Bogdan
Greetings to all who have joined,
Today we will touch on working with a store like Amazon.com. It’s most logical to start with the history of this shop. Amazon initially appeared as an online book store in 1994, over time it took over the entire online sales market, and now on this site you can find products of all categories, it has its own delivery, gadgets, cloud storage, credit cards, the list goes on for a long time. Rate the range of work =)
Amaz is a giving shop, it can be used well, due to its hugeness, but the level of fraud in it is above average.
In this lecture we will look at methods of working with this shop. I will share methods of combating antifraud, + show some of my best practices that help me make my work as profitable as possible
lecture plan:
- antifraud
- warming up
- main areas of work: self-registration, brute, logs
- analysis of typing and recommendations (practical part with screenshots)
PART I - ANTI-FRAUD
There is no point in describing what antifraud is and how it works after the lectures you have completed. We'll get straight to the point. Amazon fraud works successfully and filters orders for fraud/non-fraud. But nevertheless, even ordinary buyers often face account cancellation and blocking.
Fraud works on the principle of post-processing: you place an order - and after some time (usually 1-24 hours) it will be confirmed and sent, or blocked and the account frozen
This means that going through the checkout itself is not difficult. (Some beginners are already peeing with joy at this point). All antifraud work (reconciliation of beats, spike addresses, your IP, warming up) begins after you have placed an order. And the fact that they wrote to you that the order was paid does not mean anything)
The screenshot shows a clear example of what an order looks like from a warmed-up account and from an unwarmed one
Where the line of progress immediately spread over a long distance, the Amazon anti-fraud was most likely passed, the order passed the manual check and immediately flew into the database. Where the progress line remains at the very beginning, manual checking and processing with subsequent sending/cancellation is possible.
Of course, this does not work 100% and you should not always rely on this. But as a rule, this is a big plus both for the speed of order processing and for the chance that the goods will be sent.
So it turns out that 70% of your work is warming up your account. Unfortunately, I came to this conclusion. Of course, you can hit it right away, but it’s much better after warming up. Amaz loves being warmed up. We'll talk about how to heat it soon
Amazon operates on many domains: .com (USA), .ca (Canada), .in (India, usually there are only homeless people there), .es .fr .de, etc. (Europe), the fraud on the site varies depending on the country. And each domain has its own subtleties of work
.com is considered the most fraudulent, it’s a paradox, but it’s the easiest to work in this direction, there are several reasons for this: it’s easy to find mate, there are a lot of drops in the USA, it’s easy to find dialing and other services
.de .it .gb will be easier, they work there mainly on gift cards since drops are difficult to find in these countries, but if found, packs for different spikes and even fly to another country normally, depending on weather conditions! (joke about the weather)
Advice, if you are planning to make a stuff, then when choosing a product for the first steps in karzha, I advise beginners to focus on the illiquid category, fraud will be noticeably easier there.
Now more specifically about the possibilities of fraud. Of course, we can only guess how it works, but each point has been tested empirically. Amazon fraud can see your standard parameters that you guessed: IP, hardware, cookies
and something you might not know:
- Previously visited sites, what you were interested in
- Are you currently logged in to social networks, Google, Facebook, Instagram, etc.
- See which plugins you have enabled
- Check your email against its registration in social networks (a real holder, as a rule, will be registered in them from his email)
- And track your behavior on the site, mouse cursor, page scrolling speed, and compare it with real users (I advise those who like to use warmers to read this point twice)
All this is an anti-fraud machine, it reads, writes and compares with real users, and based on this data it decides to skip your order or not, that’s all the fraud on your fingers) The rest you will learn in the process of work. Now let's move on to the "antifraud killer" - your actions
PART 2 - ACCOUNT WARMING UP
Warming up, as I said, is 70% of the work in Amazon. An ordinary holder rummages around on various sites, looks at products, restaurants, Facebook, porn. this fills your browser cookies, we will do the same
What can you do to warm up:
- account suspension 24h+ (more is better)
- see a sufficient number of products on the site 20 pcs+
- compare the product we will buy with a similar one
- view this product on third-party sites
- read product reviews
- warm up the cart (by adding, removing goods)
- look at the reviewer on it on YouTube or another site
systematization of simple actions is a must in carding, I advise you to write down how and what you do, even if it’s just warming up, it can help later
regarding time and quantity - the numbers are approximate, more is better, you will find the golden mean when you get the hang of it
It is also not necessary to do everything from this list, but all this will be reflected in cookies and browsing history.
you can work for quantity and hardly heat, or you can work for quality (if you have a limited budget, that’s it), so let everyone, based on tests, determine which method suits him best
And one last thing. Universal, and most importantly, working advice for those who do not understand how to heat shops - do not behave like a thief, try to really choose the product. In general, it takes me half an hour to an hour to warm up my .com account properly.
PART 3 - MAIN AREAS OF WORK (SELF-REGISTERS, BRUTAL, LOGIES)
Amaz can be divided into 2 main areas - self-registration and working with other people's accounts (logs or brute force). In the first case, you register an account yourself and knit a CC. In the second, we can use the CC already linked to the account. Let's briefly look at how and with what they are eaten:
1) Self-regis
Self-regs work with antidetect browsers, virtual machines, Dediks and mobile devices, and we also need a lot of CC to work. When working with self-regs, the main difficulty is to “boost” your account. Amaz does not allow large orders with different bill thorns to be placed on fresh reg.
Let's say we have in our hands 1 SS US, for example, AmEx bank. The procedure will be as follows:
1) We register an account, link our CC immediately or later, let our account rest for a while (usually the more the better, but don’t overdo it, the card may die)
2) Warm up
3) We place the first order, as a rule it is some small thing like headphones or cases to the address CH (bill = shipp)
(this is done to lull the vigilance of the antifraud)
4) We are waiting for its delivery
5) Drive in gifts or stuff
When we made the first order for small things on CH, trust in the account increases, and you can already enter something valuable from it. Don’t try to hack MacBooks from self-regs right away.
A very common question is whether the card will die after entering small change. I’ll answer: some % of cards will die, 0-50% depends on the bin, CH, base and other things. The rest can be worked with
As you understand, building up a self-reg is not a quick process, so they register a bunch of accounts at once and work with them, in this case, if some of the accounts die, you will still have live accounts to work with
For the most inquisitive minds, before working with self-regs, I advise you to find a topic on VVH with the title discussing exclusively Amazon self-regs, there is a lot of old, but relevant information to this day
2) Brute accounts or requests.
Brute Amazon account is LOGIN: PASSWORD + access to mail. This is an endangered species, because mate has become difficult to obtain, and Amaz has introduced various verifications for logging into your account.
The difference from self-registration is that the account is already boosted by the holder’s purchases, and we don’t have to do this.
The second difference from the self-registration system is more of a minus than a plus: We do not know the full number from the card (only the last 4 digits) added to the account. And Amazon may request them for verification during checkout. And then you will have to drive in from your SS. Otherwise, everything is the same as on the self-regs.
3) Logs
Here we will dwell in more detail, since the direction is popular. log = system snapshot + browser cookies + logins with passwords + IP.
The most important thing in the Amazon log is your cookies, the better they are, the more successful the typing will be. It is desirable that there be at least 6 lines+, this way it will log into your account automatically, I’ll show you later. Don’t forget to configure the system correctly so that fraud does not see the difference between the machine from which the log was taken and yours. This mainly concerns the user agent, and permissions, webgl, etc. as desired
How to configure the system for logging? - there are many manuals in the public domain for each antique, they are different.
How do you know if Amazon cookies are good? - Easily! After setting up, go to Amazon and go to the ORDERS tab
The most important thing is that the Amaz recognizes us and writes Hello *name* at the top right. So -
a) If we got to this page without entering a password, then the cookies were fresh and in full volume
b) If using a password, that’s not bad either, some of the cookies are still preserved
c) If, after entering the password, it asks you to accept an SMS confirmation or enter a code sent to your email, then it means there are not enough cookies and + Amazon did not recognize us, this is sad, and almost equivalent to brute force but with a system configured for CH.
I told you what material to work with, now let’s look at what you can do with it.
Before this, a small remark for better understanding of the next part. It's about how sending goods to Amazon works, there are 3 categories of goods:
1st sold and shiped by Amazon - this is Amazon selling its goods for sale, it can often be sent by TBA delivery, this is such a pendo courier from Amazon itself, it unrolls packs upon any request, even an hour before delivery.
2e fulfiled by Amazon - the goods from the seller arrive at the Amazon warehouse, or a refurbished used product, Amazon undertakes its delivery to the buyer
a little secret - most often this product is sent by UPS, which can be stored under a pickup truck
3rd sold and shiped by *seller* - the seller himself ships the goods. Here, which seller you run into, some send to everyone, and some send only one courier ups/fedex/usps/dhl, occasionally a seller can indicate information about the courier services he works with on his store page, in the shipping&return section
You can watch it here - PART III - MAIN AREAS OF WORK
There are mainly 4 ways in which amaz is currently processed
1) By driving in the stuff for the drop - here you already know how, you indicated the address, warmed it up, and entered it. Fraud in this case is increased. Without a good warm-up, it may ask for the full card number, you will have to dance with a tambourine so as not to throw away your account.
2) By typing in a reroot or a pickup, you will have this topic in your lectures, or already have it. It’s a pretty good method, it’s much easier to defeat fraud this way, because we’re hitting the address CH, but there’s a nuance: you need to know the sellers who send UPS, Fedex, or hope for random. I hope you are aware that USPS does not hold, just like TBA, which I wrote about above
3) Having entered a product into Gifts or digital, we are looking for an egift that we can resell, let me clarify that for different Gifts there is a different level of fraud. Amazon egift are the easiest, but they are canceled really quickly. After driving in, we sell the gifts to the cheapest. I’m warning you - fraud is also on the rise and may request all 16 digits ss at checkout.
4) Refund/replacement - you drive in a product from Amazon on CH - and then you ask for a replacement or refund under any pretext, as a rule, you say that you did not receive the product, or there are some problems with it, and ask to send a new product, only to your address. Of the minuses: now it has become difficult to make a referral for everything above $400 without calling
The smartest ones can understand that if method 1 doesn’t work out, then we don’t throw out the account, but move from the same account to method 2; if method 2 doesn’t work out, then it can always be turned into method 3.
It may seem that the lecture is deliberately exaggerating, but this is just a description of the difficulties that Amazon can throw at you, all of which are often dealt with by simply warming up.
I’ll add for those who are planning to work with Gifts that fraud in the direction of Gifts is severe, if the account is not warmed up well, then it won’t let you pay with the card holder attached, it asks for the full number from the card for verification, don’t be surprised, but you can look for it at the post office in the camera roll CH I advise you to take denominations up to $100 at a time.
If you have any problems with a gift or order, Amazon has support. You can write to their support in the online chat, they can help resolve the issue
If they don’t help, then close the chat and try again, sometimes it works..
For everything else there is a mastercard
- Just kidding, Ringing. A much larger number of issues are resolved by calling, there is more trust. And Amazon is a very loyal company.
As I wrote above, replays and refs are made by calling. At first, it was amazing to me how people could take my word for it and send another MacBook just like that. They can.
PART IV - DRAWING ANALYSIS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
In fact, everything here is simple, like in real life - you chose a product and ordered it, but to make it easier for you to navigate the store, I will show you its interface and where to click)
First, let's go to Amazon, for example we have a usa account on the .com domain
1 - Prime is an Amazon tariff for $5-???$ per month that gives goodies like free fast delivery of goods, if it is connected then you
you will see the inscription Prime, as a rule, such accounts are always bold and actively used. in our case it is disabled
2 - here you can see the viewed products, if the holder actively uses it, then you may get caught at this point, cleaning is not recommended, but you can
3 - I’ve already logged into my account and logged it in, here we can see that Amazon recognized us and the cookies are working fine
By clicking on this button we go to the main menu
4 - orders are placed here
5 - all settings 2fa, email, and phone number here
6 - addresses to which the holder orders, here you can add a new delivery address, or do this during checkout
7 - payment methods, I ADVISE you to ALWAYS screen this page when working with accounts, as when resetting your password or other verification you will be asked for exp mm/yy
from a random card, and you won’t be able to guess
Press button 4
Usually you can understand everything about an account in a couple of minutes, we reason like this: we see that someone doesn’t shop every day, but a couple of times a month, this is an ideal option for us, a sufficient number of purchases means there is money on the cards, and the account is a trust. If you don’t buy it every day, you won’t have time to burn our order.
When entering, changing data, etc., a letter with the order is always sent by mail. In order not to get burned right away, I recommend installing a filter, or flooding. I’ll show you how to put a filter on a post using Gmail as an example (if we work with self-regs, then you don’t need to do this)
go to the side menu, scroll to the end, manage labels=> Filters=> in the Has the words field write "amazon", mark as read, delete it
After this action, all letters with the word amazon will fall into the trash folder and will be marked as read.
if you don’t have access to mail, then we’ll definitely flood, before and after the order
When we have warmed up the account and went to the ordering page, we select the shipping address, payment method from those offered, and delivery speed.
there are two points here:
1. Amaz sometimes sends SMS about the upcoming next-day delivery, if you don’t want someone to know about your order, then in the field for the phone number of the shipping address, write the number with an error
2. - you shouldn’t choose the fastest and prime delivery, fraud doesn’t really like it, if there is an option for 2-3 day, paid delivery for $, I usually take it
We set the filter, hit it, and our order appeared in the orders tab. Now the order can be archived to hide it from CH by clicking on the Archive order button, but it’s better not to do this, and if you do it, then at least 1-2 hours after the order
That's all. Now all you have to do is check if the money has been debited, I do this after 12 hours. If you have a problem with payment, you will receive a letter in the mail asking you to update the payment method, and in your account above the order there will be a red inscription revise payment method, then you can try changing payment method to any already linked card or link your own
If the order seemed suspicious and it was canceled, you will receive an email message: Recent changes to your account, this means that Amazon canceled your order, froze your account for 2+ hours and reset your password, after this it’s difficult to enter something, but you can try if you have time allows you to restore your account, recover it and try again
It also happens that Amazon simply cancels the order, without blocking the account, this is him gently hinting to you that there is a lot of fraud on this product, and you should try something else. It is advisable to give your account a break before doing this.
We sorted out the information from logging into your account to the ship pack, I hope everything was simple. Now let’s move on to your questions, please “+” in the chat, we start in 5 minutes
Baron 19:56
You talked about ups, but it doesn’t hold, if I’m not mistaken? For example, the drop service told me that it was impossible to do anything with it
Bogdan 19:58
Holding it in a warehouse is possible. It depends on the method, plus the situation is constantly changing, if the drop service doesn’t work for one, it may work for another. They can also select packs using a fake ID.
Stralixxx 19:58
If af sees everything about our mail, then how should we deal with our mail?
We can’t replace all social networks
Bogdan 20:00
use purchased/brute mail that had activity, or manage it yourself. We can’t do all social networks, but the main ones - YouTube, Google, Facebook, Twitter - are possible!
stormspecter 20:00
Are you fighting with holds if Amaz requested them? If so, does the drawing help or does he look and check the charge id as well? And I wanted to ask what system setup you use, do you use the same malika with firmware or not
nlf 20:00
can you recommend any ltc wallet?
sorry
Bogdan 20:01
nothing)
The status of the account also depends on the product; it is better to compete for one that gives an account. the rendering doesn’t really help, because they do it very perfectly - and ordinary users’ photos are usually crooked, blurry and not suitable for a DSLR. That's why look for the drawing and put the technical specifications correctly.
raspberries - I don’t use them, my own connections with the router - yes, you can. Usually antique is enough
ya8no 20:03
Regarding imgur, I have some problems, I didn’t check a single screenshot in the end. Am I the only one? (
Bogdan 20:03
I'll re-upload it to the print screen at the end of the lecture
GorilaDuster 20:03
Is it possible to beat several CC from one acc? Or do you need to create a new account for each CC?
Bogdan 20:04
Can. especially if the account is swung. everything depends on many factors. It's better to check it in practice
Peter_Parker 20:04
1) What did you mean when you said for cookies “it is desirable that there be at least 6 lines+”?
2) Which category of sellers worked better for you or is there no noticeable difference?
Bogdan 20:06
1) Cookies in json format (correct me if I’m wrong) go in lines, each on its own line. should be from 6 - that means there is an imprint from amaz
2) Sold by seller is easier, but Amazon is tastier, you can ref.
nlf 20:07
What ltc wallet would you recommend?
Bogdan 20:08
exodus, binance
Baron 20:08
Please recommend good shops with post offices
Bogdan 20:09
I don’t know, there are plenty of them. starting from the buyaccs store, it is best to look for private traders who sell mail databases for queries and brute force, log pass format.
Does anyone have any questions?
Great. Thank you all for the lecture, comrades.
Good luck everyone!
Greetings to all who have joined,
Today we will touch on working with a store like Amazon.com. It’s most logical to start with the history of this shop. Amazon initially appeared as an online book store in 1994, over time it took over the entire online sales market, and now on this site you can find products of all categories, it has its own delivery, gadgets, cloud storage, credit cards, the list goes on for a long time. Rate the range of work =)
Amaz is a giving shop, it can be used well, due to its hugeness, but the level of fraud in it is above average.
In this lecture we will look at methods of working with this shop. I will share methods of combating antifraud, + show some of my best practices that help me make my work as profitable as possible
lecture plan:
- antifraud
- warming up
- main areas of work: self-registration, brute, logs
- analysis of typing and recommendations (practical part with screenshots)
PART I - ANTI-FRAUD
There is no point in describing what antifraud is and how it works after the lectures you have completed. We'll get straight to the point. Amazon fraud works successfully and filters orders for fraud/non-fraud. But nevertheless, even ordinary buyers often face account cancellation and blocking.
Fraud works on the principle of post-processing: you place an order - and after some time (usually 1-24 hours) it will be confirmed and sent, or blocked and the account frozen
This means that going through the checkout itself is not difficult. (Some beginners are already peeing with joy at this point). All antifraud work (reconciliation of beats, spike addresses, your IP, warming up) begins after you have placed an order. And the fact that they wrote to you that the order was paid does not mean anything)
The screenshot shows a clear example of what an order looks like from a warmed-up account and from an unwarmed one
Where the line of progress immediately spread over a long distance, the Amazon anti-fraud was most likely passed, the order passed the manual check and immediately flew into the database. Where the progress line remains at the very beginning, manual checking and processing with subsequent sending/cancellation is possible.
Of course, this does not work 100% and you should not always rely on this. But as a rule, this is a big plus both for the speed of order processing and for the chance that the goods will be sent.
So it turns out that 70% of your work is warming up your account. Unfortunately, I came to this conclusion. Of course, you can hit it right away, but it’s much better after warming up. Amaz loves being warmed up. We'll talk about how to heat it soon
Amazon operates on many domains: .com (USA), .ca (Canada), .in (India, usually there are only homeless people there), .es .fr .de, etc. (Europe), the fraud on the site varies depending on the country. And each domain has its own subtleties of work
.com is considered the most fraudulent, it’s a paradox, but it’s the easiest to work in this direction, there are several reasons for this: it’s easy to find mate, there are a lot of drops in the USA, it’s easy to find dialing and other services
.de .it .gb will be easier, they work there mainly on gift cards since drops are difficult to find in these countries, but if found, packs for different spikes and even fly to another country normally, depending on weather conditions! (joke about the weather)
Advice, if you are planning to make a stuff, then when choosing a product for the first steps in karzha, I advise beginners to focus on the illiquid category, fraud will be noticeably easier there.
Now more specifically about the possibilities of fraud. Of course, we can only guess how it works, but each point has been tested empirically. Amazon fraud can see your standard parameters that you guessed: IP, hardware, cookies
and something you might not know:
- Previously visited sites, what you were interested in
- Are you currently logged in to social networks, Google, Facebook, Instagram, etc.
- See which plugins you have enabled
- Check your email against its registration in social networks (a real holder, as a rule, will be registered in them from his email)
- And track your behavior on the site, mouse cursor, page scrolling speed, and compare it with real users (I advise those who like to use warmers to read this point twice)
All this is an anti-fraud machine, it reads, writes and compares with real users, and based on this data it decides to skip your order or not, that’s all the fraud on your fingers) The rest you will learn in the process of work. Now let's move on to the "antifraud killer" - your actions
PART 2 - ACCOUNT WARMING UP
Warming up, as I said, is 70% of the work in Amazon. An ordinary holder rummages around on various sites, looks at products, restaurants, Facebook, porn. this fills your browser cookies, we will do the same
What can you do to warm up:
- account suspension 24h+ (more is better)
- see a sufficient number of products on the site 20 pcs+
- compare the product we will buy with a similar one
- view this product on third-party sites
- read product reviews
- warm up the cart (by adding, removing goods)
- look at the reviewer on it on YouTube or another site
systematization of simple actions is a must in carding, I advise you to write down how and what you do, even if it’s just warming up, it can help later
regarding time and quantity - the numbers are approximate, more is better, you will find the golden mean when you get the hang of it
It is also not necessary to do everything from this list, but all this will be reflected in cookies and browsing history.
you can work for quantity and hardly heat, or you can work for quality (if you have a limited budget, that’s it), so let everyone, based on tests, determine which method suits him best
And one last thing. Universal, and most importantly, working advice for those who do not understand how to heat shops - do not behave like a thief, try to really choose the product. In general, it takes me half an hour to an hour to warm up my .com account properly.
PART 3 - MAIN AREAS OF WORK (SELF-REGISTERS, BRUTAL, LOGIES)
Amaz can be divided into 2 main areas - self-registration and working with other people's accounts (logs or brute force). In the first case, you register an account yourself and knit a CC. In the second, we can use the CC already linked to the account. Let's briefly look at how and with what they are eaten:
1) Self-regis
Self-regs work with antidetect browsers, virtual machines, Dediks and mobile devices, and we also need a lot of CC to work. When working with self-regs, the main difficulty is to “boost” your account. Amaz does not allow large orders with different bill thorns to be placed on fresh reg.
Let's say we have in our hands 1 SS US, for example, AmEx bank. The procedure will be as follows:
1) We register an account, link our CC immediately or later, let our account rest for a while (usually the more the better, but don’t overdo it, the card may die)
2) Warm up
3) We place the first order, as a rule it is some small thing like headphones or cases to the address CH (bill = shipp)
(this is done to lull the vigilance of the antifraud)
4) We are waiting for its delivery
5) Drive in gifts or stuff
When we made the first order for small things on CH, trust in the account increases, and you can already enter something valuable from it. Don’t try to hack MacBooks from self-regs right away.
A very common question is whether the card will die after entering small change. I’ll answer: some % of cards will die, 0-50% depends on the bin, CH, base and other things. The rest can be worked with
As you understand, building up a self-reg is not a quick process, so they register a bunch of accounts at once and work with them, in this case, if some of the accounts die, you will still have live accounts to work with
For the most inquisitive minds, before working with self-regs, I advise you to find a topic on VVH with the title discussing exclusively Amazon self-regs, there is a lot of old, but relevant information to this day
2) Brute accounts or requests.
Brute Amazon account is LOGIN: PASSWORD + access to mail. This is an endangered species, because mate has become difficult to obtain, and Amaz has introduced various verifications for logging into your account.
The difference from self-registration is that the account is already boosted by the holder’s purchases, and we don’t have to do this.
The second difference from the self-registration system is more of a minus than a plus: We do not know the full number from the card (only the last 4 digits) added to the account. And Amazon may request them for verification during checkout. And then you will have to drive in from your SS. Otherwise, everything is the same as on the self-regs.
3) Logs
Here we will dwell in more detail, since the direction is popular. log = system snapshot + browser cookies + logins with passwords + IP.
The most important thing in the Amazon log is your cookies, the better they are, the more successful the typing will be. It is desirable that there be at least 6 lines+, this way it will log into your account automatically, I’ll show you later. Don’t forget to configure the system correctly so that fraud does not see the difference between the machine from which the log was taken and yours. This mainly concerns the user agent, and permissions, webgl, etc. as desired
How to configure the system for logging? - there are many manuals in the public domain for each antique, they are different.
How do you know if Amazon cookies are good? - Easily! After setting up, go to Amazon and go to the ORDERS tab
The most important thing is that the Amaz recognizes us and writes Hello *name* at the top right. So -
a) If we got to this page without entering a password, then the cookies were fresh and in full volume
b) If using a password, that’s not bad either, some of the cookies are still preserved
c) If, after entering the password, it asks you to accept an SMS confirmation or enter a code sent to your email, then it means there are not enough cookies and + Amazon did not recognize us, this is sad, and almost equivalent to brute force but with a system configured for CH.
I told you what material to work with, now let’s look at what you can do with it.
Before this, a small remark for better understanding of the next part. It's about how sending goods to Amazon works, there are 3 categories of goods:
1st sold and shiped by Amazon - this is Amazon selling its goods for sale, it can often be sent by TBA delivery, this is such a pendo courier from Amazon itself, it unrolls packs upon any request, even an hour before delivery.
2e fulfiled by Amazon - the goods from the seller arrive at the Amazon warehouse, or a refurbished used product, Amazon undertakes its delivery to the buyer
a little secret - most often this product is sent by UPS, which can be stored under a pickup truck
3rd sold and shiped by *seller* - the seller himself ships the goods. Here, which seller you run into, some send to everyone, and some send only one courier ups/fedex/usps/dhl, occasionally a seller can indicate information about the courier services he works with on his store page, in the shipping&return section
You can watch it here - PART III - MAIN AREAS OF WORK
There are mainly 4 ways in which amaz is currently processed
1) By driving in the stuff for the drop - here you already know how, you indicated the address, warmed it up, and entered it. Fraud in this case is increased. Without a good warm-up, it may ask for the full card number, you will have to dance with a tambourine so as not to throw away your account.
2) By typing in a reroot or a pickup, you will have this topic in your lectures, or already have it. It’s a pretty good method, it’s much easier to defeat fraud this way, because we’re hitting the address CH, but there’s a nuance: you need to know the sellers who send UPS, Fedex, or hope for random. I hope you are aware that USPS does not hold, just like TBA, which I wrote about above
3) Having entered a product into Gifts or digital, we are looking for an egift that we can resell, let me clarify that for different Gifts there is a different level of fraud. Amazon egift are the easiest, but they are canceled really quickly. After driving in, we sell the gifts to the cheapest. I’m warning you - fraud is also on the rise and may request all 16 digits ss at checkout.
4) Refund/replacement - you drive in a product from Amazon on CH - and then you ask for a replacement or refund under any pretext, as a rule, you say that you did not receive the product, or there are some problems with it, and ask to send a new product, only to your address. Of the minuses: now it has become difficult to make a referral for everything above $400 without calling
The smartest ones can understand that if method 1 doesn’t work out, then we don’t throw out the account, but move from the same account to method 2; if method 2 doesn’t work out, then it can always be turned into method 3.
It may seem that the lecture is deliberately exaggerating, but this is just a description of the difficulties that Amazon can throw at you, all of which are often dealt with by simply warming up.
I’ll add for those who are planning to work with Gifts that fraud in the direction of Gifts is severe, if the account is not warmed up well, then it won’t let you pay with the card holder attached, it asks for the full number from the card for verification, don’t be surprised, but you can look for it at the post office in the camera roll CH
I advise you to take denominations up to $100 at a time.If you have any problems with a gift or order, Amazon has support. You can write to their support in the online chat, they can help resolve the issue
If they don’t help, then close the chat and try again, sometimes it works..
For everything else there is a mastercard
- Just kidding, Ringing. A much larger number of issues are resolved by calling, there is more trust. And Amazon is a very loyal company.As I wrote above, replays and refs are made by calling. At first, it was amazing to me how people could take my word for it and send another MacBook just like that. They can.
PART IV - DRAWING ANALYSIS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
In fact, everything here is simple, like in real life - you chose a product and ordered it, but to make it easier for you to navigate the store, I will show you its interface and where to click)
First, let's go to Amazon, for example we have a usa account on the .com domain
1 - Prime is an Amazon tariff for $5-???$ per month that gives goodies like free fast delivery of goods, if it is connected then you
you will see the inscription Prime, as a rule, such accounts are always bold and actively used. in our case it is disabled
2 - here you can see the viewed products, if the holder actively uses it, then you may get caught at this point, cleaning is not recommended, but you can
3 - I’ve already logged into my account and logged it in, here we can see that Amazon recognized us and the cookies are working fine
By clicking on this button we go to the main menu
4 - orders are placed here
5 - all settings 2fa, email, and phone number here
6 - addresses to which the holder orders, here you can add a new delivery address, or do this during checkout
7 - payment methods, I ADVISE you to ALWAYS screen this page when working with accounts, as when resetting your password or other verification you will be asked for exp mm/yy
from a random card, and you won’t be able to guess
Press button 4
Usually you can understand everything about an account in a couple of minutes, we reason like this: we see that someone doesn’t shop every day, but a couple of times a month, this is an ideal option for us, a sufficient number of purchases means there is money on the cards, and the account is a trust. If you don’t buy it every day, you won’t have time to burn our order.
When entering, changing data, etc., a letter with the order is always sent by mail. In order not to get burned right away, I recommend installing a filter, or flooding. I’ll show you how to put a filter on a post using Gmail as an example (if we work with self-regs, then you don’t need to do this)
go to the side menu, scroll to the end, manage labels=> Filters=> in the Has the words field write "amazon", mark as read, delete it
After this action, all letters with the word amazon will fall into the trash folder and will be marked as read.
if you don’t have access to mail, then we’ll definitely flood, before and after the order
When we have warmed up the account and went to the ordering page, we select the shipping address, payment method from those offered, and delivery speed.
there are two points here:
1. Amaz sometimes sends SMS about the upcoming next-day delivery, if you don’t want someone to know about your order, then in the field for the phone number of the shipping address, write the number with an error
2. - you shouldn’t choose the fastest and prime delivery, fraud doesn’t really like it, if there is an option for 2-3 day, paid delivery for $, I usually take it
We set the filter, hit it, and our order appeared in the orders tab. Now the order can be archived to hide it from CH by clicking on the Archive order button, but it’s better not to do this, and if you do it, then at least 1-2 hours after the order
That's all. Now all you have to do is check if the money has been debited, I do this after 12 hours. If you have a problem with payment, you will receive a letter in the mail asking you to update the payment method, and in your account above the order there will be a red inscription revise payment method, then you can try changing payment method to any already linked card or link your own
If the order seemed suspicious and it was canceled, you will receive an email message: Recent changes to your account, this means that Amazon canceled your order, froze your account for 2+ hours and reset your password, after this it’s difficult to enter something, but you can try if you have time allows you to restore your account, recover it and try again
It also happens that Amazon simply cancels the order, without blocking the account, this is him gently hinting to you that there is a lot of fraud on this product, and you should try something else. It is advisable to give your account a break before doing this.
We sorted out the information from logging into your account to the ship pack, I hope everything was simple. Now let’s move on to your questions, please “+” in the chat, we start in 5 minutes
Baron 19:56
You talked about ups, but it doesn’t hold, if I’m not mistaken? For example, the drop service told me that it was impossible to do anything with it
Bogdan 19:58
Holding it in a warehouse is possible. It depends on the method, plus the situation is constantly changing, if the drop service doesn’t work for one, it may work for another. They can also select packs using a fake ID.
Stralixxx 19:58
If af sees everything about our mail, then how should we deal with our mail?
We can’t replace all social networks
Bogdan 20:00
use purchased/brute mail that had activity, or manage it yourself. We can’t do all social networks, but the main ones - YouTube, Google, Facebook, Twitter - are possible!
stormspecter 20:00
Are you fighting with holds if Amaz requested them? If so, does the drawing help or does he look and check the charge id as well? And I wanted to ask what system setup you use, do you use the same malika with firmware or not
nlf 20:00
can you recommend any ltc wallet?
sorry
Bogdan 20:01
nothing)
The status of the account also depends on the product; it is better to compete for one that gives an account. the rendering doesn’t really help, because they do it very perfectly - and ordinary users’ photos are usually crooked, blurry and not suitable for a DSLR. That's why look for the drawing and put the technical specifications correctly.
raspberries - I don’t use them, my own connections with the router - yes, you can. Usually antique is enough
ya8no 20:03
Regarding imgur, I have some problems, I didn’t check a single screenshot in the end. Am I the only one? (
Bogdan 20:03
I'll re-upload it to the print screen at the end of the lecture
GorilaDuster 20:03
Is it possible to beat several CC from one acc? Or do you need to create a new account for each CC?
Bogdan 20:04
Can. especially if the account is swung. everything depends on many factors. It's better to check it in practice
Peter_Parker 20:04
1) What did you mean when you said for cookies “it is desirable that there be at least 6 lines+”?
2) Which category of sellers worked better for you or is there no noticeable difference?
Bogdan 20:06
1) Cookies in json format (correct me if I’m wrong) go in lines, each on its own line. should be from 6 - that means there is an imprint from amaz
2) Sold by seller is easier, but Amazon is tastier, you can ref.
nlf 20:07
What ltc wallet would you recommend?
Bogdan 20:08
exodus, binance
Baron 20:08
Please recommend good shops with post offices
Bogdan 20:09
I don’t know, there are plenty of them. starting from the buyaccs store, it is best to look for private traders who sell mail databases for queries and brute force, log pass format.
Does anyone have any questions?
Great. Thank you all for the lecture, comrades.
Good luck everyone!
