Making seals at home

Tomcat

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I myself became interested in this topic about a month ago and just the other day I am ordering everything I need to make seals at home.
Two actual technologies can be considered:
- Printing from polymer
- Printing using FLASH technology
I would like to tell you more about the first technology, since printing using FLASH technology is more expensive and not immediately available for every beginner.
What is required to make seals from photopolymer:

- Computer (I think there are no special problems with this)
- Laser printer
- Program for drawing sketches (I recommend Corel Draw, I try to study it at this time)

The basis, thanks to which our print from a liquid mass will take on its form :
- Exposure camera
The exposure camera is usually a box, a suitcase, with 2-3-4-6-8 u / f lamps with a capacity of usually 8-15W.
I will order myself an option with 4 lamps, according to the advice of specialists - the optimal option. With 2 lamps, there are usually "tanners" - chambers in which the stamps reach. 6 lamps or more are also not desirable.
High-quality expo-cameras contain filling in the form of Philips UV lamps. There are cameras with and without a timer.
The cost depends on the number of lamps and case.
Price: 4000-6000 rubles
Consumables:

- Polymer
Base for seals.
Price: 650-900 rubles per liter. Depends on the brand.
All recommend basically two brands Dichrom (luxury) and Roehm

- Negative film.
The highest quality of the offered options is Kimoto film.
The price for 100 A4 sheets is around 1000-1100 rubles. You can find packages with fewer sheets.

- Protective film.
You can use lavsan film, like which flowers are packed or film from a good office Lomond
Price for 50 A4 sheets in the region of 300 rubles

- Toner for darkening the negative
Thing is not so obligatory, but highly desirable. It will improve the future print quality.
Costs 400-450 rubles per spray can

- Border tape - serves to prevent the polymer from flowing out of the mold, which it actually forms.
It costs depending on the footage

Let's get started.

We draw the layout in the core, make it "negative", that is, we do the inversion. Everything that was black becomes white.
We print this layout on film, cut out a square and put it on one of the glasses (now there are also two glasses sold together with expo cameras)
Now we need to put a border around everything in shape. It is very important to take another centimeter and a half more. Now we have a drawing of the seal fenced with a border.
Now you need to easily process the negative from a spray can and wait until the film dries.
Now we fill in the polymer and this mold. It is possible from a bottle, but better from a syringe. One print requires about 5-6 ml of polymer. If bubbles have formed, gently remove them with a small object (toothpick, needle).
Now we cover the polymer with a protective film according to the size of the negative film. We look for bubbles and cover with a second glass (it is necessary to use some kind of gasket so that the glass does not crush all this and the polymer does not leak out) We fix the glasses either with clothespins (I don’t remember the name of this thing exactly, but the design is similar) and send it to the camera. First you need to place the structure with the future back side.
For 1-1.5 minutes. You need to experiment.
Now we turn the structure "facing" towards us and set it all up for another 2-3 minutes.
After the time has elapsed, we carefully take out all this, separate the protective film with the print from the negative and wash the seal from the remaining polymer in cold water using a dishwashing detergent, it doesn't matter here - with the scent of lemon or for delicate handles.
We wash all this thoroughly, wipe it with a brush (preferably a toothbrush, not a hard brush). Now you need to pin the seal.
Pros use a tanning chamber for this, but you can also use an exposure camera. The future seal must be placed in a "tray" with a small amount of water, which will cover the seal a little.
All this is sent to the camera for another 15-20 minutes for fixing.

Separate the seal from the protective film (after tanning it should come off easily), lightly dry it with a paper towel or napkin and that's it! The seal is ready for use.
If you need it for single use, you do not need to drive with the rig.

If used infrequently, the seals will last for a long time. If you want to work on this topic as a private master in your city - please. In small towns it has not yet been filled in.
Cost of printing with tooling - 15-20 rubles
Sale price - 250-350 rubles
Well, don't forget about ourselves. Fantasy with this method of making seals is limitless.
 
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