Jollier
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The fourth part of "The Carder's Path", today we discuss antifraud, approach and warming up shops - namely in working with brute!
Let's refresh our memory of what brute is.
Brute is an automated method of extracting accounts by trying login: password combinations in the database. The result of brute is login: password + additional information from the checker about the account from a specific store (shop).
Working with brute is fundamentally different from directly hit the CC (credit card). Why? - The reason is that in brute we are not a new user, we do not need to prove to the shop that we are a real white buyer. After all, the owner of the account has already made purchases in the shop and the store knows him. Our main task is not to lose the trust of the shop acquired by the CH.
A positive result of working with brute largely depends on - the correct approach to the system settings and your behavior in the shop.
Those who switch to brute after working with CC quickly begin to understand what kind of crap various shops with credit cards sell, because most often the main problems with CC are invalidity and lack of balance. In fact, when they write about "no balance" - this is not always the case. Most often, the reason is still card fraud. CCs that are linked to brute accounts almost always have a balance, and the cards themselves are certainly not sold in a thousand hands, are not checked by checkers - because these cards are linked only to the account of a specific shop, we do not even know their full number and CVV in most cases - therefore the cards are clean.
Modern antifraud systems work in 2025. And this is really true. Almost all stores use artificial intelligence and machine learning, processing tons of information.
Therefore, even an ideally selected system for work may not give a result if your behavior in the store is unnatural or uniform. For each new brute account, you configure the system - it would seem that in each account you have a new "online personality" - however, if you work on each account in the same way, with the same actions - all your system configuration goes down the drain. The shop will recognize you from the first minutes through several accounts. Antifraud analyzes the speed of typing, the number of mistakes and even the way you move the cursor across the screen. Therefore, it is important to approach the processing of each account creatively and individually - the shop should not see you as a fraudster who an hour ago received a cancel after pressing the Place Order button, and now in another state, with a different system, but with the same actions is trying to get the coveted Processing
Warming up the shop and account.
In brute, the price of the material is much lower than when working with CC. Therefore, there are two options for working.
The first option is to work without warming up the shop and take the number of attempts.
The second option is to work with warming up trying to 100% implement a brute account.
I most often choose the first option, but my choice always depends on the cost of the attempt to carding. In order to explain how to make a choice, you first need to tell what systems can be used for work with brute.
Antidetect browser is probably the cheapest option, the price of one profile for one attempt is about $ 1, working with it - I choose the first option of working without warming up the shop. We went from the search engine to the shop, 3-5 minutes for surfing, we catch cancel or processing we go and take the next account - we take quantity, not quality.
In my experience, I will say that when working with brute force, the canvas is very important.
What is this?
Canvas fingerprinting is a technology where the user's browser draws hidden images behind the scenes to create a digital fingerprint. During the rendering process, the HTML canvas element displays device information such as background color settings, font size/style, and more.
Therefore, the first anti-detect to choose is the one with a non-unique canvas. If the canvas is 100% unique, the shop sees it and it will be difficult to do anything with it, since this is an anomaly right away, this does not happen with white buyers. I mainly used Che Browser, the canvas is not unique - it was more than suitable for brute force. In any case, there are enough anti-detects - test everything, but pay attention to the canvas parameter.
Iron anti-detect is a controversial option in 2025, but it is worth mentioning here. I had an iron anti-detect from VektorT13 with presets for my shops for $5k+, two years ago it showed excellent results. But now, in my opinion, it is not particularly relevant, it does not show results either with presets, or even without them. The disadvantages include the complexity of its setup and proxying.
This is all about the anti-detect from Vector, if you have other options for iron anti-detects in mind - be sure to test them, a good new iron anti-detect can show good results.
HRDP is a great option for working with brute force, shops behave completely differently from antiques. You fly into them with a kick, because you fly in from a real American Windows, with a real American IP (and not from an unknown proxy origin). The only and main disadvantage of working with HRDP is its price. Therefore, in this case, it is worth using the shop warm-up and working out each account to the maximum.
Log in to a trusted email, make (or buy) social networks, fill in a sufficient number of cookies - especially on the topic of the product that you plan to hit. Then enter the shop, either from social networks, or through some service with promo codes and coupons. After logging into the shop and account - surf through your categories, periodically opening competitors' offers in another tab, do everything slowly, really read the information, and do not imitate its reading. Communication with support is only for small shops, if the shop is small you can communicate with support, maybe it will give you trust. In medium and large shops - it does not make sense.
As a result, the price is high - use HRDP at the initial stages of becoming a brute, only if you have enough cash for tests, or you have access to cheap HRDP - in this case, this is definitely your choice.
Iphone, Mac - I haven't worked with these devices, so I can't say much about them. But based on current information - this may be the best option for you, there are already several articles on the forum on how to work with these devices - study, practice, perhaps - this is your gold mine) The only thing I can say is that it is not always possible to find/use a bug/feature of a leaky shop from a phone as with a PC (you will see this in practice, in the last part of this block of articles).
Regarding warming up an account.
It mainly consists of whether a small transaction on the CH or a drop is needed before a large hit. This issue is resolved exclusively by testing a specific shop. There are shops that will let you put $1000+ without a small transaction before that, there are shops that are suspicious of you, even though they know you as a buyer, but this time you still entered from a new IP and a new system, albeit a well-configured one.
From experience, I can say that it is important to understand at what point the store writes off money for the purchase. Even using the example of a shop that I will take in practice - some time ago, money was written off within an hour, after pressing the Place Order button and the coveted Processing on the screen. In this case, the picture of the hit looked like this:
We flew into the shop, 3 minutes of surfing - order a dildo on CH for $15-20, we wait an hour until the cash is written off (during this time we have time to prepare 3-5 more accounts), when the money for the purchase is written off (this is visible on the order page) we get a trust for large purchases - we change the address to the drop, hang it on $500-700-1000+, be sure to save the order number and email so that the order can be monitored, in case CH logs into the account and changes the password (rarely in this case he can turn the pack back to the shop, but in medium and large shops - this may not be so easy to do).
The good times are over, and the shop began to write off money only at the moment of sending the goods, and this is a whole day at least. It's harder to work, but the scheme is the same, only now we need our entire system to last longer (proxy or hrdp), when the money for a small transaction is written off - we try to hang it on a drop - which we will take from where? Of course, in SHIP JET.
This is where the fourth part of "The Carder's Path" comes to an end. The next article is the final one - with practice, the date of its release depends only on you. It will be released when there is enough activity and questions in all the previous topics, so I suggest you ask them actively - because when there are enough of them, we will make articles specifically on your questions.
Before practice, be sure to create an account in SHIP JET. That's all from me, see you soon!
Let's refresh our memory of what brute is.
Brute is an automated method of extracting accounts by trying login: password combinations in the database. The result of brute is login: password + additional information from the checker about the account from a specific store (shop).
Working with brute is fundamentally different from directly hit the CC (credit card). Why? - The reason is that in brute we are not a new user, we do not need to prove to the shop that we are a real white buyer. After all, the owner of the account has already made purchases in the shop and the store knows him. Our main task is not to lose the trust of the shop acquired by the CH.
A positive result of working with brute largely depends on - the correct approach to the system settings and your behavior in the shop.
Those who switch to brute after working with CC quickly begin to understand what kind of crap various shops with credit cards sell, because most often the main problems with CC are invalidity and lack of balance. In fact, when they write about "no balance" - this is not always the case. Most often, the reason is still card fraud. CCs that are linked to brute accounts almost always have a balance, and the cards themselves are certainly not sold in a thousand hands, are not checked by checkers - because these cards are linked only to the account of a specific shop, we do not even know their full number and CVV in most cases - therefore the cards are clean.
Modern antifraud systems work in 2025. And this is really true. Almost all stores use artificial intelligence and machine learning, processing tons of information.
Therefore, even an ideally selected system for work may not give a result if your behavior in the store is unnatural or uniform. For each new brute account, you configure the system - it would seem that in each account you have a new "online personality" - however, if you work on each account in the same way, with the same actions - all your system configuration goes down the drain. The shop will recognize you from the first minutes through several accounts. Antifraud analyzes the speed of typing, the number of mistakes and even the way you move the cursor across the screen. Therefore, it is important to approach the processing of each account creatively and individually - the shop should not see you as a fraudster who an hour ago received a cancel after pressing the Place Order button, and now in another state, with a different system, but with the same actions is trying to get the coveted Processing
Warming up the shop and account.
In brute, the price of the material is much lower than when working with CC. Therefore, there are two options for working.
The first option is to work without warming up the shop and take the number of attempts.
The second option is to work with warming up trying to 100% implement a brute account.
I most often choose the first option, but my choice always depends on the cost of the attempt to carding. In order to explain how to make a choice, you first need to tell what systems can be used for work with brute.
Antidetect browser is probably the cheapest option, the price of one profile for one attempt is about $ 1, working with it - I choose the first option of working without warming up the shop. We went from the search engine to the shop, 3-5 minutes for surfing, we catch cancel or processing we go and take the next account - we take quantity, not quality.
In my experience, I will say that when working with brute force, the canvas is very important.
What is this?
Canvas fingerprinting is a technology where the user's browser draws hidden images behind the scenes to create a digital fingerprint. During the rendering process, the HTML canvas element displays device information such as background color settings, font size/style, and more.
Therefore, the first anti-detect to choose is the one with a non-unique canvas. If the canvas is 100% unique, the shop sees it and it will be difficult to do anything with it, since this is an anomaly right away, this does not happen with white buyers. I mainly used Che Browser, the canvas is not unique - it was more than suitable for brute force. In any case, there are enough anti-detects - test everything, but pay attention to the canvas parameter.
Iron anti-detect is a controversial option in 2025, but it is worth mentioning here. I had an iron anti-detect from VektorT13 with presets for my shops for $5k+, two years ago it showed excellent results. But now, in my opinion, it is not particularly relevant, it does not show results either with presets, or even without them. The disadvantages include the complexity of its setup and proxying.
This is all about the anti-detect from Vector, if you have other options for iron anti-detects in mind - be sure to test them, a good new iron anti-detect can show good results.
HRDP is a great option for working with brute force, shops behave completely differently from antiques. You fly into them with a kick, because you fly in from a real American Windows, with a real American IP (and not from an unknown proxy origin). The only and main disadvantage of working with HRDP is its price. Therefore, in this case, it is worth using the shop warm-up and working out each account to the maximum.
Log in to a trusted email, make (or buy) social networks, fill in a sufficient number of cookies - especially on the topic of the product that you plan to hit. Then enter the shop, either from social networks, or through some service with promo codes and coupons. After logging into the shop and account - surf through your categories, periodically opening competitors' offers in another tab, do everything slowly, really read the information, and do not imitate its reading. Communication with support is only for small shops, if the shop is small you can communicate with support, maybe it will give you trust. In medium and large shops - it does not make sense.
As a result, the price is high - use HRDP at the initial stages of becoming a brute, only if you have enough cash for tests, or you have access to cheap HRDP - in this case, this is definitely your choice.
Iphone, Mac - I haven't worked with these devices, so I can't say much about them. But based on current information - this may be the best option for you, there are already several articles on the forum on how to work with these devices - study, practice, perhaps - this is your gold mine) The only thing I can say is that it is not always possible to find/use a bug/feature of a leaky shop from a phone as with a PC (you will see this in practice, in the last part of this block of articles).
Regarding warming up an account.
It mainly consists of whether a small transaction on the CH or a drop is needed before a large hit. This issue is resolved exclusively by testing a specific shop. There are shops that will let you put $1000+ without a small transaction before that, there are shops that are suspicious of you, even though they know you as a buyer, but this time you still entered from a new IP and a new system, albeit a well-configured one.
From experience, I can say that it is important to understand at what point the store writes off money for the purchase. Even using the example of a shop that I will take in practice - some time ago, money was written off within an hour, after pressing the Place Order button and the coveted Processing on the screen. In this case, the picture of the hit looked like this:
We flew into the shop, 3 minutes of surfing - order a dildo on CH for $15-20, we wait an hour until the cash is written off (during this time we have time to prepare 3-5 more accounts), when the money for the purchase is written off (this is visible on the order page) we get a trust for large purchases - we change the address to the drop, hang it on $500-700-1000+, be sure to save the order number and email so that the order can be monitored, in case CH logs into the account and changes the password (rarely in this case he can turn the pack back to the shop, but in medium and large shops - this may not be so easy to do).
The good times are over, and the shop began to write off money only at the moment of sending the goods, and this is a whole day at least. It's harder to work, but the scheme is the same, only now we need our entire system to last longer (proxy or hrdp), when the money for a small transaction is written off - we try to hang it on a drop - which we will take from where? Of course, in SHIP JET.
This is where the fourth part of "The Carder's Path" comes to an end. The next article is the final one - with practice, the date of its release depends only on you. It will be released when there is enough activity and questions in all the previous topics, so I suggest you ask them actively - because when there are enough of them, we will make articles specifically on your questions.
Before practice, be sure to create an account in SHIP JET. That's all from me, see you soon!
