I was inspired to write this text by the phrase “a checker that doesn’t kill CC”, in order to encounter less of this insanity, I decided to chew on this topic and convey: “any checker can ruin CC.”
Points considered:
1. How are CC blocked?
2. How are CCs minted?
3. How to check CC?
4. Where can I get a CC checker?
1. I block cards automatically on the initiative of the antifraud or by calling the card holder to the bank. Automatic blocking occurs rarely; usually the transaction is simply not missed. Here are a few cases from my practice of auto-blocking:
- many transactions in a row (although maybe cardholder were so fast)
- too large an amount in novbv merchant (here I tormented one bank for a year, day after day)
from Internet sources:
- transactions through merch which is on the antifraud blacklist - a crappy checker
- black ip, ip of the wrong country and other parameters that probably relate more to the antifraud of the store than to the bank, I classify this item as unlikely.
2. They check the card for validity, in fact, they simply carry out an operation on the card, if successful, then it is valid. But any operation on the card can be noticed by the card holder and he will block the card. And since now there is an SMS notification, the one who checked the card and left it for later is an idiot. It’s been written a hundred times, I’ll write the hundred and first time: “you took the card, punched it in, if it doesn’t fit in, only then do you check it for validity.”
3. You can check the card for validity:
A) With a CC checker - a service that is common, available in sales shops CC. That is, you simply copy the card data into a special field on the site and click “check cc”. The answer will tell you which CC is valid and which is not. The fact that many cards marked as fraud pass through this merch, the merch quickly ends up in all sorts of blacklists, and therefore may not be valid for some bins, or worse, kill the CC. I rarely use them, so to speak: “only on completed processing."
B) Donate - a regular site with a donation, here we set a minimum amount and make a payment. If the donation is successful, then the quart is valid. On the Internet they write that they are antifraud. weak, from my observations I will say that if you constantly check on the same thing, then just like all other merch, it begins to be capricious. On the plus side, you set the amount yourself, and if a transaction took place here, but not in your store, then 90% is the card balance. Of the minuses, if the donation amount is higher than the amount on the card, then you will throw away the card, thinking that it is not valid, but you just had to wait until payday =)
Example: https://www.gofundme.com/AndyReyes/donate
C) “Authorizer” (I’ll call them that) – services where you can link cards to your account, but not make a purchase. An example of this is PayPal, you can’t link a dead card there, but you don’t need to pay for goods. This is the so-called card authorization. In this case, the amount is written off, but then returned after a few hours/days. The downside is that you can’t set your own amount. Each service has its own amount, the most I’ve seen is 5 bucks. Their advantage is that the amount is returned, in the pink theory it is less flawed. And now a huge plus: there are services where the amount for authorization costs $0. According to my observations, such zero authorization does not appear on the card statement and SMS x does not arrive when the card is checked. During the zero authorization, it was revealed that cards that cannot be used to pay on the Internet pass it perfectly well, but here we can only keep statistics on bins.
4. We buy checkers in CC shops and special services, usually the service is paid. Don’t sign up for a free one, the checker is created by the same dark personalities as you. What's stopping them from intercepting your CC? And if this is a separate software, then a backdoor is provided to you. Donations – Google to help with “donate” queries. You won’t know right away which one is good and which one isn’t; it requires trial and error. You can even drive some small change into the shop. Authorizers - you need to look for all sorts of paid subscriptions, with queries like “subscription trial period”, “subscription free test”, etc.
If I lied, I'm sorry. I'm human, I can make mistakes. I will listen to your arguments.
Points considered:
1. How are CC blocked?
2. How are CCs minted?
3. How to check CC?
4. Where can I get a CC checker?
1. I block cards automatically on the initiative of the antifraud or by calling the card holder to the bank. Automatic blocking occurs rarely; usually the transaction is simply not missed. Here are a few cases from my practice of auto-blocking:
- many transactions in a row (although maybe cardholder were so fast)
- too large an amount in novbv merchant (here I tormented one bank for a year, day after day)
from Internet sources:
- transactions through merch which is on the antifraud blacklist - a crappy checker
- black ip, ip of the wrong country and other parameters that probably relate more to the antifraud of the store than to the bank, I classify this item as unlikely.
2. They check the card for validity, in fact, they simply carry out an operation on the card, if successful, then it is valid. But any operation on the card can be noticed by the card holder and he will block the card. And since now there is an SMS notification, the one who checked the card and left it for later is an idiot. It’s been written a hundred times, I’ll write the hundred and first time: “you took the card, punched it in, if it doesn’t fit in, only then do you check it for validity.”
3. You can check the card for validity:
A) With a CC checker - a service that is common, available in sales shops CC. That is, you simply copy the card data into a special field on the site and click “check cc”. The answer will tell you which CC is valid and which is not. The fact that many cards marked as fraud pass through this merch, the merch quickly ends up in all sorts of blacklists, and therefore may not be valid for some bins, or worse, kill the CC. I rarely use them, so to speak: “only on completed processing."
B) Donate - a regular site with a donation, here we set a minimum amount and make a payment. If the donation is successful, then the quart is valid. On the Internet they write that they are antifraud. weak, from my observations I will say that if you constantly check on the same thing, then just like all other merch, it begins to be capricious. On the plus side, you set the amount yourself, and if a transaction took place here, but not in your store, then 90% is the card balance. Of the minuses, if the donation amount is higher than the amount on the card, then you will throw away the card, thinking that it is not valid, but you just had to wait until payday =)
Example: https://www.gofundme.com/AndyReyes/donate
C) “Authorizer” (I’ll call them that) – services where you can link cards to your account, but not make a purchase. An example of this is PayPal, you can’t link a dead card there, but you don’t need to pay for goods. This is the so-called card authorization. In this case, the amount is written off, but then returned after a few hours/days. The downside is that you can’t set your own amount. Each service has its own amount, the most I’ve seen is 5 bucks. Their advantage is that the amount is returned, in the pink theory it is less flawed. And now a huge plus: there are services where the amount for authorization costs $0. According to my observations, such zero authorization does not appear on the card statement and SMS x does not arrive when the card is checked. During the zero authorization, it was revealed that cards that cannot be used to pay on the Internet pass it perfectly well, but here we can only keep statistics on bins.
4. We buy checkers in CC shops and special services, usually the service is paid. Don’t sign up for a free one, the checker is created by the same dark personalities as you. What's stopping them from intercepting your CC? And if this is a separate software, then a backdoor is provided to you. Donations – Google to help with “donate” queries. You won’t know right away which one is good and which one isn’t; it requires trial and error. You can even drive some small change into the shop. Authorizers - you need to look for all sorts of paid subscriptions, with queries like “subscription trial period”, “subscription free test”, etc.
If I lied, I'm sorry. I'm human, I can make mistakes. I will listen to your arguments.
Last edited by a moderator:
