Help me with information about CCs

[hasaapata]

Please help me better understand which cards to choose and what to pay attention to. I'm already confused about how the BIN helps us sort VBV/non-VBV and auto. I roughly understand how it works, and I understand that despite VBV, it can still be charged if the system is set up correctly and the minimum number of fraud points is obtained.

I need a concrete understanding of what cards I should take for my first charges, how to understand that the CC hasn't been resold several times, to understand that I'm its first "owner." Do I understand correctly that it's best to buy from frequent sellers and it's recommended not to use checkers, but rather buy a subscription to conditional Netflix so as not to kill the card?

Please also advise me on the type of card: is it better to take a debit or credit card?

In general, I will be immensely grateful to you if you give me any additional information about CC. Perhaps you can send me some links to truly significant articles, I desperately need information, thanks in advance.

 

[chushpan]

How to detect that CC has been sold to multiple hands:
1. Using a search by specified parameters, for example, by bin, the same CC was found in different shops.
Unscrupulous material suppliers can upload databases to several shops hoping for quick enrichment.
2. All purchased CCs are invalid or worked off. You found the CC you need in one shop, but it has already been purchased and used in another shop.
To avoid this, read carder reviews in the advertising topics of CC shops before buying. A good shop does not display or immediately deletes a duplicate database. After which it stops cooperating with a cunning supplier because it values regular customers and its reputation. At the moment, there are not many top shops with good material.

How to check CC for validity:
- In the automatic checker linked to the CC shop. Some believe that an authorization request kills the card. Everyone has their own good practice or bad experience in this delicate matter. As a rule, good checkers make sure that purchased cards remain alive after checking.
- Successful addition (binding) of a card to any service, payment system or application that does not send a notification about this action to the cardholder's phone. For example, you can subscribe to paid news or enter data into gaming sites, casinos, online stores or any services.
- Make a donation for a minimum amount on any site. If the cardholder has connected a notification about all transactions made and notices a write-off of even $1, then by calling the bank he can block the card.
Each carder decides for himself whether to check the card for validity before hit it into the desired site.

Where to buy cards in shops or private sellers is your choice. The most important thing is to find the right bins and be satisfied with the quality of the material. A good CC seller should provide a free replacement of an invalid one for a certain period of time.

Most carders prefer to work with premium debit cards, as they are considered to be better at entering the required merchants, others like credit cards, as they have a credit limit, that is, they can be driven into a negative balance up to a certain amount.

For all beginners, before starting work and the first hit, I recommend that you familiarize yourself with this topic: Why the cards you buy never work and what can be done about it.

 

[pyt12345]

for cards use ccastro .cc . It is arguibly the best. also use carder254 as invide code

 

[puppy]

Please help me better understand which cards to choose and what to pay attention to. I'm already confused about how the BIN helps us sort VBV/non-VBV and auto. I roughly understand how it works, and I understand that despite VBV, it can still be charged if the system is set up correctly and the minimum number of fraud points is obtained.

I need a concrete understanding of what cards I should take for my first charges, how to understand that the CC hasn't been resold several times, to understand that I'm its first "owner." Do I understand correctly that it's best to buy from frequent sellers and it's recommended not to use checkers, but rather buy a subscription to conditional Netflix so as not to kill the card?

Please also advise me on the type of card: is it better to take a debit or credit card?

In general, I will be immensely grateful to you if you give me any additional information about CC. Perhaps you can send me some links to truly significant articles, I desperately need information, thanks in advance.

Dm .what cc do u have .

 

[Jollier]

1. Understanding BIN (Bank Identification Number) & Card Filters​

• BIN (First 6-8 digits of a CC): Identifies the issuing bank, card type (debit/credit), and country.
• VBV (Verified by Visa) / MCSC (Mastercard SecureCode):
  • VBV Cards: Require additional authentication (OTP, password). Harder to exploit unless the attacker has phishing/malware access.
  • Non-VBV Cards: No extra authentication. Historically targeted in fraud, but modern systems flag unusual transactions.
• "Auto" Cards: Some merchants process low-risk transactions without VBV checks (e.g., small subscriptions).

Academic Note:
Fraud detection systems (e.g., Falcon, Ethoca) analyze BIN patterns, transaction velocity, and geolocation to block suspicious activity.

2. Detecting "Fresh" vs. Resold CCs (Hypothetical Analysis)​

In cybersecurity research, analysts study how stolen data circulates:

• Fresh CCs: Likely sourced from recent breaches (e.g., malware, skimmers). Indicators:
  • Low/no transaction history in fraud databases (e.g., HaveIBeenPwned).
  • Sold quickly after a breach (check breach timelines via DeHashed).
• Resold CCs: Often appear in multiple darknet markets. Red flags:
  • Publicly listed in pastebin-like dump sites.
  • Sold by "bulk vendors" with reused listings.

Legitimate Use Case:
Financial institutions use AI to detect resold cards by cross-refercing breach data with transaction logs.

3. Debit vs. Credit Cards in Fraud Prevention​

• Credit Cards:
  • Higher limits, but stricter fraud controls (e.g., real-time alerts, chargeback investigations).
  • Issuers may temporarily freeze cards after suspicious activity.
• Debit Cards:
  • Direct bank account access. Faster transaction declines if flagged.
  • EMV chips and 3D Secure reduce skimming efficacy.

Academic Insight:
EMV adoption reduced counterfeit fraud by 80% (PCI SSC, 2022). Research focuses on bypasses (e.g., relay attacks).

4. Why Checkers Are Risky (Even for Research)​

• Card Testing: Attempting small transactions (e.g., Netflix) triggers:
  • Velocity checks (multiple declines = block).
  • Merchant blacklisting (e.g., Stripe Radar).
• Ethical Alternative:
  Use sandboxed environments (e.g., Stripe Test Cards) to study payment workflows legally.

5. Legitimate Resources for Cybersecurity Research​

• Payment Security Standards:
  • PCI DSS (How banks secure cards).
  • NIST SP 800-63 (Authentication guidelines).
• Fraud Analysis Tools (Legal):
  • MaxMind (Geolocation/risk scoring).
  • Sift (Fraud pattern detection).

 

[Professor]

What is a BIN (Bank Identification Number)?​

• A BIN (Bank Identification Number) is the first 6–8 digits of a credit or debit card number. It identifies the issuing bank or financial institution, the type of card (credit, debit, prepaid, etc.), and sometimes even the card level (e.g., business, platinum).
• This information is essential in payment processing and fraud prevention. For example, merchants and financial systems use BINs to:
  • Verify the card type and issuing bank.
  • Check if the card is domestic or international.
  • Apply specific fraud detection rules based on the BIN.

VBV vs. Non-VBV Cards​

• VBV (Verified by Visa) is an additional security layer implemented by Visa to prevent unauthorized transactions. It often requires the cardholder to enter a password or OTP (One-Time Password) to complete a transaction.
• Non-VBV cards do not have this additional verification step, making them potentially more vulnerable to unauthorized transactions when proper security measures are not in place.

From a cybersecurity perspective:

• Companies and individuals should understand the importance of VBV and similar technologies (e.g., Mastercard's SecureCode) in protecting online transactions.
• Understanding BINs helps merchants apply fraud detection rules to certain card types or issuing regions that may have higher fraud risks.

Credit vs. Debit Cards: Which is Safer?​

From a security perspective, credit cards are generally safer than debit cards for online transactions:

• Credit Cards:
  • Transactions are not directly linked to your bank balance.
  • Credit card companies often have more robust fraud protection policies and allow chargebacks for unauthorized transactions.
  • Allows time to dispute fraudulent charges before any money is removed from your account.
• Debit Cards:
  • Linked directly to your bank account, so fraudulent charges can drain your funds immediately.
  • Fraud protections vary by bank but are generally less robust compared to credit cards.

Best Practices:

• Use credit cards for online shopping to take advantage of better fraud protection.
• If using a debit card, ensure it is linked to a separate account with limited funds to reduce risk exposure.