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The article does not claim to be the ultimate truth, most of the material was honestly copied, everything I described was tested by me personally)
So, let's get started, for making fingerprints we need:
1) an image of the print, preferably in a good resolution;
2) laser printer;
3) photopolymer (for example Verbatim VX40 or similar);
4) film for laser printer;
5) two glasses with a flat surface, the dimensions are not fundamental, the main thing is that they cover the entire print;
6) a table lamp with a UV lamp + a pack of washing powder;
7) photoshop and glue moment
All of the above can be purchased commercially.
The result is a thin film (base) of polymer, which is embossed in the form of a print.
To begin with, we will deal with the image of the fingerprint, find the image using Google or any other search engine, I found this:
In Photoshop, we do the alignment, resize and convert the image to a black and white negative, getting the following:
We print this case on film for a laser printer and cut it out. Cut out a small piece of about 5x5 cm from the same film.
Next, take the cellophane from the pack of cigarettes and cut out another 5x5cm piece or so.
As a result, we got three pieces of film, one with a negative printed on it and two transparent ones (one is thick, laser film, the other is thin from a cigarette pack).
Then we take the first of the two glasses, put or lay down, as you like, a piece of laser film on it and drip a couple of drops of photopolymer into the center of the film.
We cover all this on top with a thin film and press it with a second glass.
and we expose this sandwich under a UV lamp for about ten minutes. The photopolymer in its normal state is a viscous, absolutely transparent liquid, after exposure to ultraviolet light, it “freezes”, becoming like transparent rubber or hardened silicone sealant.
After ten minutes, we take out what has turned out and tear off a thin film from the cigarette pack.
We are left with a thick film from the laser on which there is a layer of polymer (base). From above, in the center, drip a couple more drops of photopolymer and apply a negative.
We cover all this with a second glass, the resulting sandwich is again sent under UV, but already for 2.5 (two and a half) minutes.
Ultraviolet light passing through the transparent areas of the negative cures the photopolymer in the shape of the pattern on the negative. Further, the crucial moment, you need to carefully separate the base from the negative.
Based on the polymer base, which we received after the first exposure, we see the resulting relief, it remains only to rinse the base with the relief from the remnants of uncured photopolymer.
For rinsing, we use warm water, fairies and a toothbrush.
In principle, everything is ready, but we will go the right way and will not rush, we will immerse what we have in a cuvette with water and send it for the final exposure.
The final exposure will give the finished product mechanical strength, durability and no residual adhesion. After the final 10 minute exposure, dry and cut out the print.
We separate the cut print on the base from the thick film for the laser, smear our finger with Moment glue, let it dry a little and glue a new print on the finger.
In the same way, we can make prints)
So, let's get started, for making fingerprints we need:
1) an image of the print, preferably in a good resolution;
2) laser printer;
3) photopolymer (for example Verbatim VX40 or similar);
4) film for laser printer;
5) two glasses with a flat surface, the dimensions are not fundamental, the main thing is that they cover the entire print;
6) a table lamp with a UV lamp + a pack of washing powder;
7) photoshop and glue moment
All of the above can be purchased commercially.
The result is a thin film (base) of polymer, which is embossed in the form of a print.
To begin with, we will deal with the image of the fingerprint, find the image using Google or any other search engine, I found this:
In Photoshop, we do the alignment, resize and convert the image to a black and white negative, getting the following:
We print this case on film for a laser printer and cut it out. Cut out a small piece of about 5x5 cm from the same film.
Next, take the cellophane from the pack of cigarettes and cut out another 5x5cm piece or so.
As a result, we got three pieces of film, one with a negative printed on it and two transparent ones (one is thick, laser film, the other is thin from a cigarette pack).
Then we take the first of the two glasses, put or lay down, as you like, a piece of laser film on it and drip a couple of drops of photopolymer into the center of the film.
We cover all this on top with a thin film and press it with a second glass.
and we expose this sandwich under a UV lamp for about ten minutes. The photopolymer in its normal state is a viscous, absolutely transparent liquid, after exposure to ultraviolet light, it “freezes”, becoming like transparent rubber or hardened silicone sealant.
After ten minutes, we take out what has turned out and tear off a thin film from the cigarette pack.
We are left with a thick film from the laser on which there is a layer of polymer (base). From above, in the center, drip a couple more drops of photopolymer and apply a negative.
We cover all this with a second glass, the resulting sandwich is again sent under UV, but already for 2.5 (two and a half) minutes.
Ultraviolet light passing through the transparent areas of the negative cures the photopolymer in the shape of the pattern on the negative. Further, the crucial moment, you need to carefully separate the base from the negative.
Based on the polymer base, which we received after the first exposure, we see the resulting relief, it remains only to rinse the base with the relief from the remnants of uncured photopolymer.
For rinsing, we use warm water, fairies and a toothbrush.
In principle, everything is ready, but we will go the right way and will not rush, we will immerse what we have in a cuvette with water and send it for the final exposure.
The final exposure will give the finished product mechanical strength, durability and no residual adhesion. After the final 10 minute exposure, dry and cut out the print.
We separate the cut print on the base from the thick film for the laser, smear our finger with Moment glue, let it dry a little and glue a new print on the finger.
In the same way, we can make prints)
