Hello carders, friends! I will touch on a current topic for most carders - check and valid cards. Often, many topics are broken only because the CC simply turned out to be invalid.
You prepared an email, a number, found a clean grandfather and a sock under the ZIP holder, found a drop, entered a shop, rang it, and received Decline. Because of which? The card simply turned out to be invalid. And a lot of time and effort was wasted.
Many people don't think that even after checking the card before inserting it and seeing Valid/Approve, they can get Decline. Since the card simply dies after the check. Why is this happening?
First, let's figure out how a check occurs in a store. After purchasing the card, you click Check Card, and the merch that is attached to the checker tries to write off some small amount from the card - $0.01-1, or some other amount.
If the card allows him to write off money, then the checker issues a Valid response, and then returns this amount back to the card.
Why is a refund made to the card? So that there are no claims against the merchant that he received money without the user's permission. No money received - no complaints. That's why checkers live in peace, since you won't show them anything from the law.
What happens next? Since the checker is popular, most banks know the codes of this merchant, and if they see a transaction with a code from this merchant, they automatically block the card until the holder contacts the bank.
As a result: you received a valid card, which immediately died after the check. There is no point in driving it in anymore, since the bank sees that the card is compromised and no transactions on it will go through.
We check at night and get Approve. The next day we are going to drive in, and we decide to check again - we already see Decline. Although in fact, from the moment of Approve to the moment of Decline, 1 minute is enough.
Therefore, the first thing a beginner needs to know is not to check the card before inserting. It's better not to check cards with checkers in the store at all. It's much more profitable to find a CC Shop with good validity and buy there. And all invalid cards - either change them through tickets, or just put up with it.
The second point is multiple drives. This is true for both USA and EU with a VBV password. Relatively speaking, we have a CC with $10,000 on board. We go to a shop, we drive it in, then we go to another shop and we drive it in there, and so on. As a result, we get Decline everywhere. Or we have an EU card with VBV, we put $500 into our merch, the next transfer is another $500, then another $1,000 - we get Decline. Although it is known that the balance on the card is $10,000.
I often hear this statement - that this refusal gives merch. Not really. Refusal due to the bank blocking the card for several reasons:
I made a bunch of transactions with breaks of a few minutes, and as you can see, all payments were made with an SMS code (VBV), but even this did not save the card from being blocked. The automatic protection system worked and the card was blocked.
After unblocking, you can perform operations again, but exactly a week later, if the situation repeats, you will be blocked again. Therefore, many attempts to reduce the amount of driving, etc. - lead to nothing.
There is only one way out: Perform transactions for large amounts at once (if the card has VBV). Don't push the map into a bunch of places at once. 1 card - 1 drive. After Approve, you drive further. Don't try to get the most out of your card by jamming it everywhere. As a result, you will be left with nothing.
In general, I hope that beginning carders will find this information useful. Think with your own head, keep statistics and analyze your actions. Thank you all, big kills!
You prepared an email, a number, found a clean grandfather and a sock under the ZIP holder, found a drop, entered a shop, rang it, and received Decline. Because of which? The card simply turned out to be invalid. And a lot of time and effort was wasted.
Many people don't think that even after checking the card before inserting it and seeing Valid/Approve, they can get Decline. Since the card simply dies after the check. Why is this happening?
First, let's figure out how a check occurs in a store. After purchasing the card, you click Check Card, and the merch that is attached to the checker tries to write off some small amount from the card - $0.01-1, or some other amount.
If the card allows him to write off money, then the checker issues a Valid response, and then returns this amount back to the card.
Why is a refund made to the card? So that there are no claims against the merchant that he received money without the user's permission. No money received - no complaints. That's why checkers live in peace, since you won't show them anything from the law.
What happens next? Since the checker is popular, most banks know the codes of this merchant, and if they see a transaction with a code from this merchant, they automatically block the card until the holder contacts the bank.
As a result: you received a valid card, which immediately died after the check. There is no point in driving it in anymore, since the bank sees that the card is compromised and no transactions on it will go through.
We check at night and get Approve. The next day we are going to drive in, and we decide to check again - we already see Decline. Although in fact, from the moment of Approve to the moment of Decline, 1 minute is enough.
Therefore, the first thing a beginner needs to know is not to check the card before inserting. It's better not to check cards with checkers in the store at all. It's much more profitable to find a CC Shop with good validity and buy there. And all invalid cards - either change them through tickets, or just put up with it.
The second point is multiple drives. This is true for both USA and EU with a VBV password. Relatively speaking, we have a CC with $10,000 on board. We go to a shop, we drive it in, then we go to another shop and we drive it in there, and so on. As a result, we get Decline everywhere. Or we have an EU card with VBV, we put $500 into our merch, the next transfer is another $500, then another $1,000 - we get Decline. Although it is known that the balance on the card is $10,000.
I often hear this statement - that this refusal gives merch. Not really. Refusal due to the bank blocking the card for several reasons:
- Many atypical transactions in a short period of time. For the bank's security system, this means that the card may have been compromised, and the system automatically blocks it until it is clarified.
- Many transactions of the same type in one merchant. Usually, if you type a bunch of transactions into one piece of merchandise, with ~10 minutes between inputs, the bank's system will also block the card. The block will be removed only after calling the bank. It doesn't matter that the transaction is carried out with VBV, and the bank in 99% of cases will not refund this money.
I made a bunch of transactions with breaks of a few minutes, and as you can see, all payments were made with an SMS code (VBV), but even this did not save the card from being blocked. The automatic protection system worked and the card was blocked.
After unblocking, you can perform operations again, but exactly a week later, if the situation repeats, you will be blocked again. Therefore, many attempts to reduce the amount of driving, etc. - lead to nothing.
There is only one way out: Perform transactions for large amounts at once (if the card has VBV). Don't push the map into a bunch of places at once. 1 card - 1 drive. After Approve, you drive further. Don't try to get the most out of your card by jamming it everywhere. As a result, you will be left with nothing.
In general, I hope that beginning carders will find this information useful. Think with your own head, keep statistics and analyze your actions. Thank you all, big kills!
